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Friendly Planet Travel

China Delight

China

OVERVIEW

Introduction

These days, it's quite jarring to walk around parts of old Beijing. Although old grannies can still be

seen pushing cabbages in rickety wooden carts amidst huddles of men playing chess, it's not

uncommon to see them all suddenly scurry to the side to make way for a brand-new BMW luxury

sedan squeezing through the narrow hutong (a traditional Beijing alleyway). The same could be said

of the longtang-style alleys of Sichuan or a bustling marketplace in Sichuan. Modern China is a land

of paradox, and it's becoming increasingly so in this era of unprecedented socioeconomic change.

Relentless change—seen so clearly in projects like the Yangtze River dam and the relocation of

thousands of people—has been an elemental part of China's modern character. Violent revolutions

in the 20th century, burgeoning population growth (China is now the world's most populous country

by far) and economic prosperity (brought about by a recent openness to the outside world) have

almost made that change inevitable. China's cities are being transformed—Beijing and Shanghai are

probably the most dynamic cities in the world right now. And the country's political position in the

world is rising: The 2008 Olympics were awarded to Beijing, despite widespread concern about how

the government treats its people.

China has always been one of the most attractive travel destinations in the world, partly because so

much history exists alongside the new, partly because it is still so unknown to outsiders. The

country and its people remain a mystery. The rice paddies may have sprouted cities and

manufacturing centers, and the streets may be clogged with cars and pollution, but the people

remain rooted in a rich cultural heritage. They still burn joss sticks for good luck in an enterprise—

even as they iron out the details of that enterprise on a cell phone.

History

China is one of the oldest nations in the world. Its recorded history dates back 5,000 years. For

most of that time, China was ruled by a succession of dynasties, and each left its mark on the

country. For instance, the Qin began construction of the Great Wall, the Sui built the Grand Canal,

and the Song period is known for its artistic achievements.

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The first Europeans to reach China were the Portuguese, who began trading on the island of Macau

in the 16th century. The British soon followed, but their efforts were largely unprofitable until they

began pushing opium in the mid-1800s. The Opium Wars eventually led to British control of Hong

Kong, a place that was not returned to China until 1997. (Macau was reintegrated into China in

1999.)

The last dynasty officially ended in 1911. The ensuing years devolved into a struggle between the

capitalist forces of Chiang Kai-shek and Mao Zedong's Chinese Communist Party. Chiang Kai-shek

held control through the 1930s, but after World War II, Mao's guerrilla army began winning the

battle. In 1949, the People's Republic of China was born and Chiang Kai-shek fled to Taiwan.

Led by Mao Zedong, the new government transformed China into a communist nation. Land was

redistributed, industries were absorbed by the state and, most unfortunately, opposition was not

tolerated. Tibet was brought under Beijing's control in the 1950s. Thousands of writers, artists,

teachers and others were imprisoned or killed during the Cultural Revolution of 1966-70. In 1989,

13 years after Mao's death, the students demonstrating for democracy in Beijing's Tiananmen

Square were overrun by soldiers and tanks.

Although Mao's legacy of intellectual oppression remains intact, China's recent leaders have

embraced free trade. The country was admitted to the World Trade Organization in 2001, which

means the world's most-populous nation became officially open for global business. The first big

venture is set to take place in Beijing in 2008, when the Olympic Games go to China for the first

time.

Geography

China, the third-largest nation in the world, encompasses virtually every type of terrain imaginable,

from the steamy lowlands of the southeast to the Himalayan peaks of Tibet to the Gobi Desert in

the north. Most of the country's major rivers, including the Yellow and Yangtze, flow from west to

east. China is bordered by 14 other countries.

Snapshot

China's main attractions are the Great Wall, the terra-cotta warriors, acrobats, shopping, Hong

Kong, Tibet, pandas, ancient instrumental music and Chinese opera, food, the Forbidden City and a

diverse landscape.

China will appeal to open-minded travelers interested in visiting an important culture that is truly

different from their own—they'll have the experience of a lifetime. China will not appeal to travelers

who have respiratory problems (many of the cities are rather polluted), who demand impeccable

service and accommodations at all times, or who don't like Chinese food. Outside of the major

tourist areas, creature comforts can be few and far between. For many travelers, group travel will

be the best way to go; in some parts of China—politically sensitive areas such as Tibet, for

instance—group travel was once the only way to visit. However, as Tibet and other areas of the

country increasingly open up to tourism, that is changing. It is certainly possible to travel

individually, although the services of a local guide are still necessary and permits require visits to be

as part of an organized tour, officially at least. Given that access to parts of the country can be

denied to foreigners without advance warning, it's best to have a flexible schedule and to keep

abreast of news developments.

Potpourri

The Kong Family Cemetery in Qufu is the world's largest clan cemetery. The great sage Confucius

and more than 100,000 descendants spanning 76 generations are buried there. There are now 4

million Kong family members in China and overseas. A China-wide Kong family tree record is

maintained in Qufu. The most recent update started in 1998 and took more than five years to

complete.

The last eunuch of the last emperor died in 1996, closing the chapter on one of the stranger aspects

of imperial China. Aside from the emperor, eunuchs were the only men trusted to enter the inner

courtyards of the royal palace where the emperor's concubines resided.

During most of its 5,000-year history, China has been one of the world's technological leaders—it's

the birthplace of moveable type, astronomy, gunpowder and spaghetti.

Although the country's minority groups make up only 8% of the population, their traditional

homelands cover more than half of China. In addition to the majority Han Chinese, there are 55

minority groups, the largest of which is the Zhuang, numbering more than 15 million. Yunnan

province is home to 26 minorities.

The written Chinese language is expressed by a series of characters in which one character or a

series of characters together express certain meanings or things. Although there are upward of

40,000 characters in the language, most people know only a few thousand.

Those interested in Buddhism may want to visit shrines in the four sacred mountains of Chinese

Buddhism: Emei Mountain (Sichuan), Wutai Mountain (Shanxi Province), Jiuhua Mountain (Anhui)

and Putuo Mountain (Zhejiang).

Kaifeng (380 mi/610 km southwest of Beijing) still has a small Chinese Jewish community. Their

ancestors fled to China after the Roman conquest of Israel.

Martial-arts fans may want to make a pilgrimage to the Shaolin Temple in Zhengzhou (465 mi/750

km south of Beijing), birthplace of kung fu.

SEE AND DO

Recreation

Because China encompasses such a vast land area, recreational opportunites can seem nearly

endless. Practically any sport or terrain you require can be found—but the time needed to get there

can be daunting.

Beaches

Few visitors realize that China has beaches. In fact, a number of towns and cities around its lengthy

east and south coastline have beaches popular with domestic tourists, but it is tropical Hainan

Island—China's southernmost province—which has developed as an international beach destination.

The best beaches are near Sanya, the town at the southernmost tip. Luxury resort hotels line Sanya

Bay and nearby Yalong Bay, which are lapped by the warm South China Sea.

Bicycling

Beijing has 9 million bicycles, and throughout the country, many locals rely on the bicycle as their

mode of transport. Visitors can rent cycles in many places, and most of China is open for those who

want to travel around backcountry areas. However, some places remain off-limits and others

require permits. Good areas for exploring by bicycle range from the Great Wall near Beijing and

around Guilin and Yangshuo in Guangxi province to more demanding terrain in Sichuan, Yunnan,

Guizhou and Guangdong provinces. Tibet offers extremely challenging cycling.

Bird Watching

China is home to about 1,200 species of birds, including the red-crowned crane and brown-eared

pheasant, which are found nowhere else in the world. Sichuan is among the best provinces for bird-

watching, with nearly 600 species resident there, as well as popular areas such as Jiuzhaigou Valley

and Mount Emei. Other top bird-watching sites are Caohai Lake in Guizhou, Qinghai Lake in Qinghai

and Zhalong Nature Reserve in far northeast province Heilongjiang—China's largest reed swamp,

where the endangered red-crowned crane is one of six crane species in residence.

Boating and Sailing

Many of China's cities have parks with lakes where you can rent pleasure boats. They include

Beijing's Beihai Park and Kunming Lake, alongside the Summer Palace, as well as Hangzhou's

famous West Lake, a favorite spot for lovers. Water sports including sailing are available at hotels in

Sanya, on Hainan Island. Otherwise, sailing is in its infancy in China at the moment. However, with

its burgeoning economy and a rapidly-growing boat-building industry, China will undoubtedly

become a major sailing destination. It is likely to center on Qingdao in Shandong province, as well

as places such as Hong Kong, Macau and Hainan Island.

Golf

There are more than 200 golf courses throughout China. Many of them are at golf resorts where

facilities are of the highest quality, with courses by some of the world's top designers. China now

hosts several events on the European and Asian PGA tours. Mission Hills Golf Club, at Shenzhen in

the southern province of Guangdong, is the world's largest golf complex with 10 courses and plans

to add two more, including another 18-hole championship course. Guangdong has more than 70

courses in all. Other golfing hot spots include Beijing, Shanghai and neighboring Jiangsu province,

Kunming and Lijiang in Yunnan, Guilin in Guangxi, Chengdu in Sichuan and Dalian in Liaoning

province.

Health Clubs

Spas, wellness centers and health clubs can be found in all of China's major cities and in key tourist

resort areas. Most are in the luxury five-star hotels that are springing up around the country, with

city properties catering mainly to business guests and resort properties appealing to vacationers.

Others are at golf and sport complexes. Traditional Chinese treatments are usually supplemented by

those from other Asian countries and from the West. There are hot springs with health complexes in

several parts of China, including Nantian Hot Springs in Tengqiao on Hainan Island (12.5 mi/20 km

from Sanya) and at the base of Mount Emei in Sichuan.

Hiking and Walking

Every kind of hiking option is available in China, from gentle walks through forests and other scenic

areas to treks among the world's highest peaks. Some of the best hiking is in western China. One of

the most popular routes in Yunnan is Tiger Leaping Gorge, a path high above the fledgling Yangtze

River (known as the Chang Jiang at that point) as it squeezes between towering mountains. There is

other good hiking around Dali. A walk to the top of Mount Emei (near Chengdu in Sichuan province)

and back again takes three days, with accommodations at summit hotels and monasteries on the

mountain flanks. Or it can be combined with the mountain minibus service and cable cars to make it

as short as half a day.

Get a real flavor of Tibet by following routes used by pilgrims. They range from circuits around

Lhasa's Jokhang Temple or Potala Palace to one around the base of sacred Mount Kailash, in

western Tibet. The Great Wall can be hiked in a number of areas, among them between Jinshanling

and Simatai or around Badaling or Mutianyu—all not far from Beijing. But be aware that the wall is

very steep in sections.

Horseback Riding

Horse trekking trips can be undertaken in several areas of China, including the mountainous area of

Songpan in northern Sichuan. Local guides lead treks lasting up to five days. Horse treks can also

be taken on the grasslands of the Tibetan Plateau in western Sichuan and in the Goddess Lake area,

on the outskirts of the Jiuzhaigou Valley reserve in Sichuan. Tourist camel rides can be taken in the

desert dunes near Dunhuang in Gansu province.

Jogging

Few people jog in China. Go to a park in any town or city early in the morning and many people will

be practicing the ancient art of tai chi instead. It is possible to jog in these parks, although some

charge an entrance fee. Jogging alongside roads is not a healthy option because of all the pollution

from traffic and the danger posed by the mass of bicycles and mopeds when crossing roads.

Scuba Diving and Snorkeling

The clear, warm waters off Sanya on Hainan Island's southern coast are excellent for scuba diving

or snorkeling. The Sanya Coral Reef Nature Reserve, established in 1990, contains approximately

140 different types of hard and soft corals, more than 300 species of fish and a similar number of

invertebrates. The best reefs are in Yalong, Xiadonghai and Dadonghai bays. Diving is year-round,

and there are diving centers offering lessons. Most sites are a short boat ride away from the beach.

The shallow water is ideal for beginners but may not excite more advanced divers.

Skiing

Another sport few outsiders realize can be enjoyed in China is available is downhill skiing. Yabuli

(125 mi/200 km northeast of Harbin) is China's premier ski resort. It hosted the 1996 Asian Games

and boasts a 120-day ski season and 11 ski runs, including the longest in Asia, at 3 mi/5 km long.

In Sichuan, Xiling Snow Mountain (75 mi/120 km west of Chengdu) is a summer and winter

recreation area that has skiing November-March. Mount Emei (100 mi/160 km southwest of

Chengdu) has limited downhill and cross-country skiing. In the hills close to Beijing, there are

several small ski areas that use artificial snow.

Other Options

Rock climbing is very popular around Yangshuo in Guangxi. The vertical faces of the many iconic

limestone pinnacles (known as karsts) that pepper the landscape between Guilin and Yangshuo

make for excellent climbing, and there are numerous marked routes for experienced climbers.

Beginners can take courses and tackle easier climbs. For those who want the real deal, the

Himalayas offer an unrivaled mountaineering experience. Everest Base Camp (Qomolangma Base

Camp), near Tingri in Tibet, is the starting point for expeditions trying to conquer the world's

highest mountain. Nearby Rongphu Monastery offers overnight accommodation with views of the

mighty peak.

Destinations in China

Beijing

The famous portrait of Mao Zedong still looks over this city's shoulder, as though he's guarding

communist austerity and discipline. But the Beijing he stares out upon is hardly the city he left

behind.

Change is everywhere—in the clothes (you could wear them to the office in London or Los Angeles);

in the increasingly paralyzing traffic (more and more European- and American-brand automobiles

jam the streets); in the electronics (mobile phones, mobile phones, mobile phones); and in the

construction (high-rises, high-rises, high-rises). If you scrub off the Gobi Desert dust, which is glued

to everything with diesel exhaust, you'll find the city's true patina—a mixture of old and new. It may

surprise you that you can still catch the glimmer of an ancient, lacquered temple or a traditional

jadeite bracelet contrasted with the machine-made gleam of chrome and glass.

No doubt it's a calculated gleam. The Chinese government wants Beijing to be recognized as a

modern world capital—modern enough for foreign investment, modern enough to host the 2008

Summer Olympics. It's a huge, burgeoning metropolis, with bulldozers carving the way to its future.

Great Wall Of China

No matter how many pictures of it you've seen, the Great Wall of China is still impressive. It follows

a ridge of barren hills through northern China, stretching as far as the eye can see—at least 3,750

mi/6,000 km. It's thought that, at one time, it was 6,000 mi/9,700 km long.

The Wall is usually visited near Badaling (50 mi/75 km from Beijing)—that's where most of the

tour buses go. There's a crowded carnival atmosphere there, with sedan chairs for rent, U.S. fast-

food restaurants, and polluted air that tends to curtail the view. Another section of the wall, at

Juyong Pass, which is closer to Beijing, has also become popular with tour groups. (You'll find lots of

teenagers trying to sprint up the 350-plus steps.)

We prefer the less crowded site at Mutianyu (45 mi/70 km from Beijing), although it, too, now

receives plenty of visitors. Many people get worn out climbing to the first two watchtowers (it's very

steep), but there's a cable car to help you up. When it's not too crowded, you can get an idea of

how isolated it must have felt to be a lookout along the Wall 2,000 years ago. You can even spend

the night in a former watchtower that's been converted into a hotel: the Mutianyu Great Wall Castle

Villa. The portions of the Wall at Badaling and Mutianyu are reconstructions, not the remains of the

original Wall.

Adventurous travelers can also visit the Wall at Simatai (55 mi/90 km from Beijing) for a

memorable sunset and sunrise. It's a non-reconstructed part of the wall that snakes over several

steep mountains. In some sections, the wall is only 3 ft/1 m thick. Beijing is about a three-hour bus

ride from Simatai. Be sure to take along your own food and water in any case.

Other interesting places to view the Wall are near Jiayuguan at its western end, or near

Shanhaiguan, where the Wall meets the ocean.

There are a number of ways to visit the Wall. Tours geared for Westerners can be arranged at most

major hotels. The tours that cater to Chinese tourists are less expensive but aren't worth the

savings. They generally spend less time at the Wall and more time at such sites as the indoor

aquatic park on the outskirts of Beijing (a thrill for rural Chinese, but not something most

Westerners would appreciate). If you can organize a group of three or four, hiring a taxi for the day

will be only a little more expensive, and you will be able to see what you want for as long as you

want.

It has become popular for hardcore hikers to visit wild sections of the Wall—mostly ruins. However,

the government has outlawed such hikes in an effort to preserve these sections.

Yangtze River

China has built the world's largest dam on the world's third-longest river, a project that has begun

to raise the waters of the Yangtze along the scenic Three Gorges area. The waters are expected to

rise gradually until 2009, when most of the marvelous old temples, landmarks and towns along the

river will be underwater.

Major cruise companies now offer cruises from Chongqing to Yichang or from Chongqing to

Wuhan, and longer cruises operate between Chongqing and Shanghai. Most people take the boat

downstream from Chongqing to Wuhan (about 900 mi/1,300 km), which takes about three days.

The upstream trip is two days longer, and you may be the only tourist on board. The Three Gorges

(Qutang, Wu and Xiling), the highlight of the trip, lie between Chongqing and Yueyang. With cliffs

rising thousands of feet/meters above the river, Wu (20 mi/32 km long) is the most impressive. The

cruises usually include an excursion up one of the streams feeding into the Yangtze as well—we like

the trip up the Shennonjia Stream near Badong, where trackers pull the boats upstream with

shoulder harnesses and let the vessels float silently back down through narrow gorges.

You can travel by cruise ship or public passenger ferry. The cruise ships are at the top end of the

luxury scale—some have swimming pools and beauty salons, all have English-speaking guides. It's

best to arrange these trips from your home country, although you can book them at many travel

offices in China. The tourist ships stop in towns of interest to tourists, whereas passenger ferries

don't stay long enough for sightseeing.

The passenger ferries are less comfortable—and some are not running at all. Until the permanent

locks are in place, some companies are sending passengers to their destination by bus or train

rather than by ship. If you do make it on board a ship, try to get a second-class ticket (the best

offered) to reserve a two-berth cabin and—most important—to ensure a seat in the second-class

lounge, which has the best views.

Chongqing

This big city is one of our favorites simply because it has character. In contrast to many of China's

flat, uniformly gray cities, Chongqing (pronounced chong-CHING) is on the hilly banks of the

Yangtze. We enjoyed just walking the streets (lined with sculpted wood balconies) and spending

time on the active docks. Among Chongqing's attractions are the Sichuan Fine Arts Academy (an

artists colony), a lacquerware factory and hot springs. There are several museums commemorating

postrevolutionary events, including the Hongyancun Revolutionary Memorial Hall and the U.S.-

Chiang Kai-shek Criminal Acts Exhibition Hall, complete with displays of torture instruments.

(Chongqing was the wartime capital of Chiang Kai-shek.) Pipa Shan Park, the highest point in the

area (682 ft/208 m), has a pleasant view.

Despite the city's charms, most travelers go there as part of a trip to Dazu, known for its Buddhist

sculptures. Set in a mountainous and green area, Dazu was not open to travelers until 1982. Today

you'll find an impressive reclining Buddha and thousands of stone carvings, some dating from the

ninth century. Chongqing is also a good departure point for a Yangtze River cruise, which usually

ends in Wuhan, in Hubei province. 150 mi/240 km southeast of Chengdu.

Shanghai

Just mentioning the name Shanghai conjures images of romance, mystery and adventure. But you

need only stand in the city's historic Bund and look across the Huangpu River to see the high-tech

Oriental Pearl TV Tower looming over the ambitious skyline of Pudong's Lujiazui financial district like

a space rocket. Alongside the glittering, 88-story Jinmao Building and the futuristic, cubic Shanghai

Stock Exchange, the 1,377-ft/420-m tower is a symbol of this modern city and its mission—to

embrace the challenges of the new millennium and become one of the world's great commercial

centers. If Shanghai succeeds, it will be a return to glory days of old.

In its heyday in the late 1920s and '30s, cosmopolitan Shanghai was known as the Paris of the

East—a dynamic melting pot for people, ideas and money from every corner of the planet. It was an

exciting time of breakneck industrial progress, of swaggering confidence and of smoky jazz venues.

Business boomed, fortunes were made—and lost, and made again—and everything seemed

possible. But Shanghai was also vilified by many as a corrupt haven for gamblers, pimps, gangsters,

drug runners and the idle rich. So when Mao Zedong's communists took control in 1949, they

clamped down hard on this shameless playground of colonial adventurers and capitalists.

After four decades of austerity, Shanghai reawakened in the late 1980s, thanks to the economic

reforms implemented by Deng Xiaoping. Since then the city has thrown itself into a headlong rush

to make up for lost time. Countless glass and steel skyscrapers reach for the clouds, Mercedes and

Buick sedans cruise the neon-lit streets, and modern department stores stock Prada, Gucci and all

the stylish trappings available in Paris and New York. Perhaps more than any other city in Asia,

Shanghai has the confidence and sheer determination to forge a glittering future as one of the

world's most important metropolises.

Shanghai's quaint European architecture, flashy nightlife venues and sophisticated elegance often

surprise visitors from overseas. The city offers a fascinating glimpse into China's potential. Save

some energy to experience some of its fantastic nightlife—from an exquisite dinner at M on the

Bund, to clubbing throughout the French concession's cornucopia of nighttime extremes—the place

pulsates with an energy all its own. We recommend pulling out all the stops and staying at the

Grand Hyatt in Pudong—one of the most breathtaking hotels in Asia. A nighttime stroll on the Bund

is also a must-do.

DINING

The variety of Chinese cuisines can be thrilling. There are eight major cuisine schools: Anhui and

Shandong in the north; Fujian, Jiangsu (also called Huaiyang) and Zhejiang in the east; Cantonese

in the south; and Sichuan and Hunan in the west. It's important to understand that Chinese cooking

in China is different from Chinese food served in the West. It's not uncommon, for instance, to find

the chicken's head, feet and sundry vitals floating in the soup tureen or to be served an entire fish,

complete with eyeballs and scales. And its important to take a few precautions while you eat as

well: Chew your rice carefully, as it often has grit in it; chew meat such as chicken carefully (bones

are often cut up into the food rather than removed); and prepare yourself to see those bones being

spit out by the Chinese onto tablecloths or the floor (it's considered perfectly acceptable).

In some smaller cities, you'll be ushered into a special room for foreign guests, which is a mixed

blessing. It's quieter, cleaner and less smoky, but it's also less colorful and more expensive for the

same food. If you politely insist to the waiter that you want to eat with the masses, you'll usually be

allowed to. Ask if the chef has a specialty. In rural areas and Tibet, where the language barrier

seems impenetrable, you may be invited to the kitchen to point at what you want. A few Tibetan

words might help you along: cha (butter tea), thukpa (noodle soup), tsampa (roasted barley flour)

or momo (vegetable- or meat-filled dumplings).

In many restaurants, food is put on dishes on the table for everyone to share. Large round tables

for six or more people will have a large glass lazy Susan, so you just rotate it until the dish you

want is within reach. You will have a small plate to use if you don't want to eat directly from the

community dishes. Steamed rice, if ordered, is normally served near the end of the meal. Tell your

server if you want it sooner. Fried rice is a main course. If a large portion of food is put on the table

and you're the only one there, don't feel obliged to eat everything in the serving bowl. Some of the

food may be intended for guests who have yet to arrive. If you are invited to a Chinese home,

remember that eating everything is impolite—it implies the host didn't prepare enough food.

Be sure to try Cantonese dim sum, a breakfast or lunch of small dishes. Waiters or waitresses push

carts loaded with steaming bamboo baskets or plates with food. (In the northern part of the

country, this meal is called jiao zi—dumplings—and is served without the push carts.) To order, just

wave them over and point to what you want. (Don't feel you need to fill up from one cart—another

will be along soon enough with something different.) Other restaurants may give you a card on

which you mark your choices. Some of our favorite dim sum dishes are: ha gow (shrimp

dumplings), cha siu bau (steamed barbecue pork bun), lao mai kai (sticky rice with egg, pork and

mushroom) and sin chok kuen (pancakes stuffed with vegetables). More adventuresome eaters

could try mongo pohding (mango pudding), satay yao yu (skewered squid) or au to (beef stomach).

If the waiter offers you coconut cake, be aware that it's not a baked cake, but rather a square, firm

pudding that's very refreshing.

We've eaten at the food stalls in big cities without ill effect, but use your best judgment—if things

don't appear clean, eat elsewhere. Those things that look like oversized cherries pierced by a

wooden stick and sold on the street are haw—glazed crab apples. Don't eat from the food carted

down the aisles of the trains; local vendors selling their goods through the windows during stops

have food that's more reliably fresh.

China's regional cuisines vary enormously in the way the food is prepared and often in the types of

ingredients used. In the north, Mongolian hotpot (similar to a fondue in which meat, vegetables and

even solidified duck blood are cooked in a simmering pot in the center of the table) is a particular

favorite. Beijing duck (or Peking duck) is another and one more familiar with Western visitors.

Seafood is a key menu item in eastern cuisines, which are noted for their subtle and delicate

flavorings. Buddha jumps over the wall is the strange name for a popular eastern dish which

comprises soup or stew with meat, seafood and other ingredients. Late September-December is the

season for hairy crab, using the Chinese mitten crab which has become an invasive pest in North

America and Europe but is a delicacy in Shanghai and other eastern and southern areas. Sichuan is

famed for its spicy flavors, using a lot of chilies and peppers.

But the food is not all fiery. Wild vegetables and herbs are used in many dishes. Typical dishes

include Ma Po doufu, a spicy mix of tofu (bean curd) and minced pork that literally translates to

"pock-marked Mother Chen's bean curd," after the old woman who originated it. Although not one

of China's celebrated cuisines, Yunnan has a very distinctive dish worth trying called guo qiaomian

(across the bridge noodles). It is a bit like a fondue but in a bowl with piping hot soup, into which

are placed raw meats, fish and noodles to cook.

In Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai, you'll find nearly every type of food, from Continental to

McDonald's and pizza. There are even reasonable versions of a Jewish deli.

In Macau, you won't find the variety of restaurants that Hong Kong has, but you can get good

Chinese, Portuguese, Macanese, Indonesian, Thai, Italian, Vietnamese, Japanese and Continental

meals. Macanese food has a few distinctive dishes, including minche (ground pork with potatoes)

and spicy African chicken (in a rich peanut sauce). Because of the mix of cultures, you'll come

across restaurants with names like Casa Lee Fung Noodle Shop.

SHOPPING

In nearly all cities, your guides will take you to visit the government-run Friendship Stores as part

of your tour. Although they may be convenient places to see what's available locally, to look at good

examples of the products and to determine what the high end of the price range is, you'll generally

find better bargains elsewhere. And the Friendship Stores are about the only place you can't

bargain. After your visit to the Friendship Store, visit the private or provincial stores, craft shops

and local department stores. The best shopping is often at public markets. If you don't see anything

as good, go back to the Friendship Store. As a rule, if you see something you want, buy it when you

see it—prices don't vary greatly, but selection does. The real top-of-the-line products are often sold

in Hong Kong or are exported. Be aware that stores attached to craft factories (particularly silk

factories) and government-run stores in general may be selling damaged goods—examine items

carefully before buying them.

Shop for carpets, wood-block prints, cloisonne, porcelain, glass items, silk, cinnabar lacquer, hand-

painted snuff bottles, stone and jade carvings, books, Mao buttons, reproductions of old art

(including sculptures), jewelry, patent medicines, musical instruments, embroidered linens, and

acupuncture and calligraphy paraphernalia. Chops (ink seals) and ink stones are also popular.

Ethnic tribal crafts are available in the Kunming, Xi'an and Chengdu areas, and in Tibet, anything

from Panchen Lama key rings and tiny clay Buddhas to prayer wheels and ornate copper inkwells

can be found. If you're buying something that is or looks old, make sure it has an official red seal

from the government releasing it for export. Otherwise, it may be confiscated when you depart.

In Hong Kong, shopping is a different story. You can buy virtually any consumer item. There are

bargains to be had, but keep in mind that not every purchase will be a fantastic deal. To take

advantage of Hong Kong, you need to do a little preparation. You should know exactly what you

want before you leave home, and you should take note of what it costs at home when it's on sale.

When you get to Hong Kong, don't buy unless the item is far enough below the sale price to justify

shipping (or carrying) it back—and, possibly, paying import duty. Before handing over any money,

make sure that everything works and that all pieces are included. If the item is a brand-name

product, make sure that the manufacturer's warranty cards are all there and that serial numbers on

the box match those on the product. Hong Kong merchants are not obligated by law to return or

exchange items once purchased, so be very sure of what you're buying before paying; you may be

able to talk a merchant into an exchange, but you'll never see your money again. Prices vary

greatly from store to store, so shop around. Bargaining can be done in smaller shops in the main

tourist areas, especially if prices are not marked. (To give you some idea of costs, the Hong Kong

Tourist Board publishes recommended retail prices for a wide variety of goods in a number of free

pamphlets, including Shopping, Dining & Nightlife, and Sightseeing & Culture.) Cash will usually get

you a better price than credit cards. Stores displaying the Hong Kong Tourist Board sticker are

generally considered to subscribe to higher ethics and to be of greater reliability than those that

don't. If you expect a store to ship your goods for you, make sure it's an HKTB member or the

goods may never arrive. Be sure to keep your receipts for customs declaration when you return

home. Shop for Chinese-made goods even if you're going to other parts of China, as the quality of

what is sold in Hong Kong is often higher than what's sold in the Friendship Stores.

Among the better buys in Hong Kong are electronic equipment, glasses and contact lenses (take

your prescription from home), gems (if you know what you're doing), silks, perfume, watches and

jewelry, ceramics, Asian art, leather goods, antiques, carpets and clothing (including beautifully

tailored suits and shirts). Small souvenirs include chopsticks, kung fu and acupuncture

paraphernalia, tea, paper items bought in funeral shops, and cloisonne or cinnabar boxes.

A word or two about custom tailoring in Hong Kong: Much is made of the fact that a custom suit can

be turned out in 24 hours. It can be, and it'll look like it. If you want clothing custom-made, give

the tailor as much time as you can, go back for several fittings, and make sure there's time for

alterations. Also, check the quality of the material carefully. If some tailors' prices are significantly

lower than others, they're likely using a cheaper fabric (for instance, there are several grades of

wool sold in Hong Kong). Some people take their own fabric and patterns (tailors may even work

from photographs of the desired article). Good tailors will keep your pattern so that you can order

again from home—presuming your shape hasn't changed too much.

China's rapid economic growth and fast-growing middle class means there is demand for the

household and leisure goods taken for granted in the West. Store names familiar back home, such

as IKEA, Wal-Mart and Carrefour, can be found in cities throughout China, and others are springing

up as international companies vie for a slice of the pie. You'll find many rip-offs of international

brands, even down to store names on some of China's most popular shopping streets, as

counterfeiting has long been a huge industry in China. However, the government has finally started

to take action and prosecute local companies breaching internationally registered trade names and

copyrights. Even local markets popular with tourists because of their fake designer-name goods

have been forced to close. In Beijing, the old Silk Market, notorious for cheap knockoffs, was shut

down and replaced by a more sanitized indoor market with traders only allowed to sell legitimate

goods. Likewise, Shanghai's infamous Xi'angyang market—where you could buy anything from fake

Gucci, Prada and other designer labels to copies of the latest Nike and Callaway golf clubs—was

closed in a crackdown by authorities. However, the enterprising traders will always find somewhere

else to ply their trade.

Established markets are well worth seeking out to look for bargain buys. Among the most

fascinating is Beijing's Panjiayuan Market, where you can find crafts on sale from all over China as

well as souvenirs, handmade jewelry, and secondhand items—even traditional Chinese marionettes.

Outside the market, you may see an old man kicking a brightly-colored shuttlecock, a traditional

Chinese game in which participants have to stop it from hitting the ground. He's a trader as well, of

course, and simply wants to sell his homemade shuttlecocks (painted feathers stuck into a plastic

cap and weighted by rusty washers).

Major stores and other shops selling a good selection of fashion and leisure items can be found

along shopping streets in key cities. The most well-known in Beijing is Wanfujing, which is close to

Tiananmen Square and has food markets selling all kinds of dishes for the adventurous at either

end. Shanghai has Nanjing Road and other stores in the old French Concession area as well as

touristy emporia in the Yu Gardens Bazaar. Guangzhou has many shops and stores along

Zhongshan Five-Road and Beijing Road.

Shopping Hours: Monday-Sunday 9 am-7 pm.

SECURITY

Personal Safety

Except for isolated reports of banditry in the rural areas, travel outside of the cities is safe. The

cities, too, are safe. The biggest threat to travelers is petty crime near areas frequented by tourists

(hotels, restaurants and transportation sites).

Keep an eye on personal items such as purses and pocketbooks. Do not leave bags unzipped and

showing anything that might be tempting. Unfortunately, even China is not immune from

opportunistic pickpockets and bag snatchers. In busy tourist areas and at popular attractions, it is

especially important to watch your things. Do not put bags down, even for a few seconds, or they

are likely to disappear. Reporting thefts to the local Public Security Bureau is a very long, drawn-out

affair with endless paperwork. You will need an interpreter with you, and you will probably have to

return at last once more to pick up the paperwork needed for insurance claims. And even if you can

persuade an officer to go with you back to the scene of the crime, chances are the perpetrators will

be long gone—and there will be a stony silence if traders or other locals are asked if they saw

anything. Once you lose any possessions, do not expect to see them again. You need to be just as

vigilant on public transport. Crowded long-distance buses are notorious for petty crime, as are the

open sleeper compartments of trains.

In some cities, you may find yourself being targeted by beggars if you walk alone or in small

groups, especially at night. While they are more an annoyance than a threat, they can be quite

aggressive and an encounter can be an unpleasant experience that could sour or even ruin an

otherwise enjoyable vacation. Avoid dimly-lit areas or places off the beaten track in cities if you go

for a walk. However, such instances are happily still uncommon rather than the norm.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

Many visitors develop respiratory problems because of polluted air, high altitude, cold weather and

the stress that comes with travel. Currently, immunization against polio, tetanus, typhoid and

hepatitis are recommended, though not required—consult your physician. Also ask your doctor

about malaria suppressants if you will be visiting Hainan Island and areas close to the Laotian and

Myanmar borders. Take along insect repellent and clothing to cover arms and legs. Take along all

prescription and over-the-counter medicine needed for the trip as well.

Rabies is endemic in China, and there are a number of cases of humans being infected by dog bites

each year. However, these are invariably in rural areas. When it happens in populated areas,

authorities generally embark on a cull of stray dogs. Avian flu outbreaks have been reported in

several areas of China since it first appeared in Asia in 2004. Bilharzia and Japanese encephalitis

also occur in rural areas, and southern China has had several outbreaks of dengue fever in recent

years. Take diarrhea medication with you, especially if you plan to try any snack food from street

vendors. Chinese cooking methods are good at killing bugs and you may find that you can quite

happily eat street food with no ill effects, but hygiene standards are likely to be less stringent than

in restaurants.

Note: Be aware that RH negative and O type bloods are not commonly stored in China. Also, China

has had problems screening its blood supply to prevent the spread of HIV, and any blood products

must be viewed with skepticism.

In Hong Kong and Macau, sanitary conditions are much higher than in the rest of China. Outside of

Hong Kong, do not drink the tap water. (Stick with prepackaged or boiled drinks.) Most hotel rooms

come equipped with a thermos of boiled water for tea.

Major cities in China have excellent joint-venture hospitals, clinics and emergency centers with all

the latest facilities and Western treatments. Chinese hospitals are under severe pressure these days

from rising costs and under-investment. Standards and facilities in general wards leave much to be

desired, but many do have VIP wards or departments where foreign nationals are treated. The

Chinese are experts at using natural treatments such as herbs and plants as medicinal cures, and

this is often combined with traditional treatment methods including reflexology, acupuncture and

massage. Some hospitals have outpatients' departments or clinics noted for their traditional

treatments and medicines, such as the Guilin Hospital of Sino-Western Medicine.

Pharmacies are everywhere in China. Those in large cities may sell a selection of Western

medications as well as Chinese herbal remedies. Antibiotics are also available but require a

prescription now.

Tibet presents its own problems: Going from Xi'an or Chengdu (450 ft/140 m) to Lhasa (12,000

ft/3,660 m) in a few hours may cause altitude sickness. Symptoms include nausea, headaches,

insomnia, dizziness and chest pains. A mild case may be gone in a day, or it can linger for weeks.

Rest and aspirin seem to help, but altitude sickness can have serious complications, so report your

symptoms to your tour leader or a doctor. A local tea, available from shops and restaurants, is

reputed to help you acclimate to the altitude if drunk over a few days. (Altitude sickness can be

fatal, so you may be required to return to lower altitudes.)

For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Etiquette

China continues to evolve in ways that are bringing it in closer contact with the rest of the world.

Nonetheless, the country remains a place where business travelers need to tread carefully.

Appointments—You will need to establish local contacts before journeying to China. Begin by

contacting the department of your government that deals with international business (the U.S.

Department of Commerce, for instance). It can put you in touch with business and government

personnel in China. Once in the country, remember that punctuality on the part of all parties is very

important (for both business and social occasions). If you are late, it not only reflects badly on

yourself; it can also be perceived as a slight that can put the whole business relationship into

question.

Personal Introductions—Handshaking is now the norm, accompanied by a slight nod of the head

or a slight bow. Maintain a formal demeanor during introductions. Official titles are important. When

the person has no official title, use standard English titles unless you are fluent in Mandarin: "Mr.,"

"Ms." (unmarried female) and "Madam" (married female—the title should accompany her maiden

name). The Chinese typically have two or three names: The first is the family name, and that's the

one that should be paired with the title (thus, Mao Zedong is referred to as Chairman Mao). Your

business cards should have English on one side and a Chinese translation on the other. Treat the

business cards you receive with respect and leave them on the table in front of you during the

meeting for reference. At the end of the meeting, place the cards in a wallet or holder in your jacket

pocket, not in a wallet that you put in a pocket.

Negotiating—Business meetings begin with a short interval of polite conversation of a general

nature, usually over tea or drinks. Hard-driving, get-right-to-the-point tactics usually backfire.

Negotiations will typically be protracted and involved. Multiple meetings on the same issues are not

unusual. Expect the unexpected, and do not be thrown by last-minute complexities or demands. If

you have a deadline, do not reveal it. The host may signal the end of a meeting by offering more

tea. The correct response is to decline the offer and say that you are ready to leave. If the host

thanks you for coming, that, too, is a clue that the meeting is over.

Business Entertaining—Evening banquets are often extravagant affairs with many courses and

often exotic foods. Expect many toasts throughout the evening, often with Chinese liquor (baijiu). If

you do not drink or are among the many foreigners who don't enjoy its taste, politely decline by

toasting with your tea or other drink. Business is usually not discussed at large banquets. At other

business meals, it is appropriate to discuss business if your host initiates the discussion.

Body Language—Observe a very formal body posture. Refrain from touching, and keep gestures to

an absolute minimum.

Gift Giving—On the whole, gift giving in business is not common, and caution should be exercised.

Gifts given to an entire group or company usually get a better response than those given to an

individual. Do not bestow the gifts until negotiations have been completed. It is common to be given

a gift as a gesture of friendship and goodwill by Chinese hosts. If you receive a gift, do not unwrap

it until you are out of the presence of the giver. A small token from your home country is often a

good idea to give in return, especially if you are invited to someone's home for a meal. The color of

a gift and its wrapping paper have great significance. Two good choices are red (the color of luck)

and yellow (the color of prosperity). Avoid items and wrappings that are white because that color is

associated with funerals. Clocks of any color can have the same connotation. And never give a

green hat as a gift. It will cause great offense, as wearing a green hat is a public sign that the

wearer's partner is having an extramarital affair.

Conversation—Avoid politics, especially such sensitive issues as Tibet, Taiwan, the Communist

Party or Tiananmen Square. Regardless of your acquaintances' real feelings, they will most likely

not be comfortable expressing themselves to you and certainly not in public. History, family and

Chinese culture are all good topics. Be careful if you compliment someone on their possessions. An

article of clothing or a home decoration you comment on favorably may be offered to you—don't

accept.

Dos and Don'ts

Don't be surprised if you're stared at in public places. For many rural Chinese (including those who

have recently moved to major cities), it's unusual to encounter Westerners.

Do expect to see people spitting and blowing their noses onto the ground (without a handkerchief).

These are accepted practices in China.

Do write down numbers when discussing them. In Chinese, it's easy to confuse, say, 50 (wu shi)

with 15 (shi wu). Likewise, when an English speaker says 16, it may be interpreted as 60. And do

learn to count to 10 in Chinese. This will be helpful when shopping because Western hand signals

for numbers are completely different (for example, a forefinger and thumb outstretched means

eight).

Do try and speak a little of the local language—Mandarin in most of China and Cantonese in

Guangdong and Hong Kong. They are notoriously difficult to learn and master. However, a simple

xie xie (thank you) or ni hao (hello) will break the ice and invariably produce smiles and friendly

laughter.

Don't raise your voice or get angry, even if you feel you have been wronged. Such behavior is

considered rude and uncivilized in China. Try to have a reasoned argument rather than losing your

cool.

Do take the address of the hotel where you are staying with you, written in Chinese characters, so

that you can show a taxi driver. Few speak or can read English, even in Beijing and Shanghai. If you

are taking a taxi from the hotel, get the concierge to write down your destination for you. Some

hotels have cards listing major attractions in the city in English and Chinese on one side, and the

hotel address on the other.

Do look to the right before getting off of a bus. Many bicycle riders riding between the bus and curb

do not stop for exiting bus passengers.

Do take along your own toilet paper—you never know when you may need it. In restaurants, you

are often given small packets of paper tissues instead of napkins. Always take them and keep them

with you in your bag or pocket as emergency toilet paper.

Do stock up on extra medicine for stomach ailments. If you are prone to chest problems, such as

asthma, take enough medication to last your trip. A spare course of antibiotics might be an idea to

take as well.

Do bargain aggressively—prices quoted to foreign visitors are often grossly inflated.

PRACTICALITIES

Geostats

Official Name: People's Republic of China.

Passport/Visa Requirements: A passport and visa are required for citizens of Canada and the

U.S. A departure tax is now included in the cost of airline tickets.

Although there are only a few places in China that are forbidden to tourists, do not attempt to visit

an off-limits city without permission. If you have any questions, ask the local Public Security

Bureau. Probably the most popular area that requires a permit is Tibet (obtainable through many

travel agencies).

A yellow-fever certificate is required for mainland China if you're arriving from an infected area.

Certificates are not required if only visiting Hong Kong or Macau. Reconfirm travel document

requirements with your carrier before departure.

Capital: Beijing.

Population: 1,313,973,713.

Languages: Putonghua (or Mandarin) is the most common language, though it has several

dialects. In Hong Kong, people speak Cantonese and English.

Predominant Religions: Officially atheist, but Buddhists, Taoists, Lamaists, Muslims and

Christians still practice.

Time Zone: 8 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+8 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not

observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 86, country code; 10, city code for Beijing; 21, city code for Shanghai; 852, city

code for Hong Kong.

Money

Currency Exchange

The Renminbi, or People's Currency, is mainland China's currency and is known as the yuan. It is

generally written down as RMB or a capital Y with a bar through it (¥). It is divided into 10 jiao and

100 fen. The yuan was tied to the dollar, but as a result of growing complaints about it being

overvalued, it was revalued in 2005 and given a broader range of movement against a basket of

international currencies.

Both Hong Kong and Macau have their own currencies (HK dollar and pataca, respectively). Hong

Kong has been a Special Administrative Region of China since July 1997, Macau since December

1999. Autonomy for both was guaranteed for a period of 50 years through a "one country, two

systems" policy, under which both will continue to retain their individual currencies.

You cannot change your money into Chinese currency before you arrive. It is a good idea to take

traveler's checks, but changing money in China can be done at international airports, major banks

and at hotels that cater to international guests. The exchange rate will not be as good at hotels, but

if you need money quickly, that may be the most convenient option. You can also withdraw money

in local currency from ATMs using major internationally recognized credit and debit cards. A charge

is generally levied for transactions. ATMs are becoming more widespread, and you can often find

them in large hotels, shopping malls, airports and at large bank branches. Away from big cities,

they are harder to track down, so if you are traveling from a city to rural areas, withdraw enough

cash before leaving.

Credit cards are accepted in most large hotels. Some restaurants and large stores may also accept

them. However, cash is king outside cities, and few places will take payment by credit cards.

If you do have a lot of cash, only take enough for what you will need on that day when you leave

the hotel. Deposit the rest in a safe in your room (many hotels have them now) or at the front desk.

Carry the remaining cash in a money belt.

Currency Exchange Rates

US Dollar Chinese renminbi

$10 78.99

$20 157.98

$30 236.97

$40 315.96

$50 394.94

$60 473.93

$70 552.92

$80 631.91

$90 710.90

$100 789.89

Taxes

An airport-construction fee is levied on all departing passengers from mainland China (currently

90RMB for international flights and 50RMB for domestic flights), now included as part of the ticket

price.

Hotels typically levy a 15% service charge to bills.

Tipping

In Hong Kong, tip 10%. In the rest of China, don't tip as a general rule. Most upscale hotels will add

a 15% service charge to your restaurant bill. Waiters in hotel restaurants may expect a tip from

Western diners, and porters in top-notch hotels will certainly hope for one.

Weather

We prefer seeing northern China during September and October, and southern China and Hong

Kong in November and December. China's climate is one of extremes—hot summers in most parts

of the country, bitter winters in the north and comfortable winters in the south. Winters in China

can feel colder because the heating is never quite right (either too cold or too hot), but gloriously

thick quilts and thermoses of hot water are provided everywhere, even in cheaper hotels and on

trains. Spring rains can make southern cities (especially Guilin and Guangzhou) dreadfully humid.

Sandstorms can be a problem in the north (including Beijing) in April. Tibet can be bitter cold, even

in the autumn and late spring. If you don't take enough warm clothing in the winter, you can easily

find practical cold-weather gear in most areas of China (though stocks are limited in Tibet).

What to Wear

China has such a vast contrast of climates, you need to consider carefully where you are visiting

and at what time of year when choosing what to pack. If you are traveling to southern China, you

should take long sleeves and pants to fend off mosquitoes at any time of the year. Elsewhere,

mosquitoes are only likely to be a problem from late spring to fall. At high altitudes or away from

southern China, long sleeves and pants will help you keep warm. Take extra layers as well, so that

you can remove or add them as necessary. A sweater or light jacket will also help keep you warm

on cooler evenings, even in summer. If you are visiting areas that experience extreme heat (such

as northern China's deserts, the Yangtze River or southern China in summer) pack lightweight

cotton clothes. Take a hat and always put on plenty of sunscreen to avoid sun exposure, especially

at higher elevations where the sun's rays are much stronger.

Business meetings require conservative business suits with a tie. For less formal occasions, smart

casual dress with an open collar is usually acceptable. Dress up and go Shanghai chic with the locals

for a night on the town in China's most cosmopolitan city. And take smart evening wear for dining

out in upscale restaurants or going to the theater, opera or nightclub (or a casino in Macau).

Women should dress modestly in public, especially when visiting temples and monasteries. Shorts

are a good option to wear on the beach and when it is hot in other parts of the country, but men

should also cover up if visiting religious buildings.

Communication

Telephone

Pay phones are widely available throughout China. There are kiosks on sidewalks and in airports,

railway stations and shopping centers. Shops in smaller towns popular with tourists may also

display signs to show calls may be made inside. Phones generally take prepaid phone cards, which

can be bought from a number of outlets including stores and post offices. Calls within China can be

made with an IC card, while international calls require long-distance IP cards. The cards have easy-

to-follow instructions, usually in English as well as in Chinese. To call from China, you need to dial

00 and then the country code and area/city code, excluding the initial 0. Local calls are free, and

you do not need to dial the city code, but be aware that hotels may add a charge per call. Rates for

overseas calls made from hotels are also subject to surcharges.

Cell phone coverage is very good in China's cities, major tourist areas and throughout much of the

country. Don't be surprised if you are at the top of a mountain in deepest China and you hear a

shrill version of Auld Lang Syne, one of the most popular ring tones. Officially, about 30% of the

country has cell phone coverage. Roaming agreements with international networks mean cell

phones from overseas will generally be able to make and receive calls.

Internet Access

Most large tourist and business hotels provide Internet service, many of them offering broadband

access. Upscale properties may have wireless access in guest rooms, while others will generally

have cable connections. Smaller hotels may only have the Internet available by the front desk, in

which case a machine for guest use is usually provided. Other hotels also usually have a PC in the

lobby for guest use. Broadband speeds are a little slower than in other countries but acceptable.

Where there is no broadband available, you can get online via dial-up connection. Towns and cities

across China have very cheap dial-up access using dedicated local numbers. Check with your hotel.

It should be able to provide you with one or more numbers.

Hotels providing broadband may offer it free, but generally there is a daily charge to connect, in line

with international hotels in other parts of the world. There are Internet cafes with inexpensive

access in towns and cities throughout China. Internet censorship is applied, however, and sites

considered to be against China's national interest are blocked. These include several major

international news organizations. Google has drawn international criticism for agreeing to apply self-

censorship in China.

Mail and Package Services

China's postal service is efficient and a good value. Sending a letter or postcard is easy, and it will

normally arrive at overseas destinations in less than a week. Most large hotels have postal facilities

for sending mail and small parcels. For other items, you need to go to a post office, where you can

buy packaging and a box to fit so you can send them via international Express Mail Service. Parcels

may take much longer, especially if they are opened for customs inspection (you need to fill out a

customs declaration form at the post office and include the receipt if it is a new item). For quicker,

but more expensive, delivery use international carrier services such as FedEx, TNT, DHL or UPS.

Newspapers and Magazines

The major Chinese-language newspapers are People's Daily (which also has editions in English and

other languages), Guangming Daily and Economic Daily, while China Daily is the main English-

language newspaper. You can also find English-language China editions of international publications

such as Newsweek and the International Herald Tribune. English-language business magazines

include China Business Weekly, China Economic Review and China International Business, which are

national publications, and Shanghai Business Review. Among regional English-language newspapers

are Shanghai Daily and Hong Kong's China Morning Post and The Standard.

Listings and reviews of restaurant, nightlife and entertainment are carried by English-language

magazines freely distributed in China's major cities. Among the largest are That's Beijing and That's

Shanghai. Both cities also have Metrozine (monthly) and City Weekend (biweekly) along with a host

of others, including Shanghai Talk, Shanghai Scene, Beijing Talk and Beijing Today.

Transportation

Capital International Airport (PEK) is 20 mi/30 km northeast of Beijing (http://www.bcia.com.cn). A

new terminal is under construction and due to open by the end of 2007, in time for the 2008

Olympics. A direct rail link from the airport to Beijing's center opens in 2008. Pudong International

Airport (PVG) is 20 mi/30 km southeast of Shanghai (http://www.shanghaiairport.com). Hong Kong

International Airport (KHG) is about 20 mi/30 km from the city (http://www.hongkongairport.com).

Domestic service is available to all major cities on a variety of airlines.

It used to be difficult for independent travelers in China to book internal flights. The situation has

improved dramatically, but it may be that some travelers (not on prearranged tours) will be unable

to book return flights from more remote destinations until they actually get there. Travelers may

still have to rely on the old method—dashing to the local airline office immediately upon arrival to

purchase a return ticket. Check with carriers before departure. If you're on a prearranged tour, this

warning doesn't apply.

Trains with steam locomotives, which once operated around the country, have all but disappeared.

Generally, domestic train tickets can be bought only in China, although some tickets may be booked

through Chinese travel agencies in North America. If you're traveling on your own, it's impossible to

make advance reservations for a train departing any city other than the one you're in. In other

words, if you want to go from Shanghai to Beijing and back, you must buy the return ticket in

Beijing. It may also be difficult to get same-day or day-after reservations unless you're traveling

soft berth (the four classes are soft berth, hard berth, soft seat and hard seat). Soft berth provides

a chance to travel in style—semiprivate rooms, lace curtains on the windows, slippers and

preferential treatment in the dining car—but it costs almost as much as flying. Hard berth isn't

much harder, but there's no privacy, and it may be difficult to get a seat for meals. If you can't

book a hard- or soft-berth ticket in time for your departure, it's sometimes possible to buy a hard

seat and upgrade with the conductor after the train departs. Be prepared to pay a premium, as the

ultimate price is up to the conductor. If you end up riding in a hard seat overnight, be sure to keep

a close eye on your valuables: Professional thieves may be riding with you. Remember the golden

rule: Always book as early as possible.

Major cities have special booking offices for foreign independent travelers who are going by rail. You

pay a small premium but get first choice on tickets. The office in Beijing is in the main train station;

in Shanghai, it's just up the street from the Peace Hotel. Outside the major cities, it's usually

worthwhile to work through a local travel service, which can prebook tickets in other cities (if they

have an office there), as well as help cut through the red tape. Don't throw away your train ticket:

You usually will be asked to show it as you leave the station. Your hotel can usually help make these

arrangements for you.

Intercity buses tend to be uncomfortable (most Chinese are a lot smaller than most tourists),

although they have improved in recent years with the opening of many four-lane expressways. They

are recommended for the experienced or unusually tolerant traveler. Avoid sitting in the back of the

bus at all costs, especially on rough roads where you'll be bounced around mercilessly.

Some bus routes have been privatized, which has led to some perks and some problems. Perks

include sleeper seats on some long-distance buses (usually cheap airplane seats laid flat). The

biggest problem is that, regardless of schedules, conductors don't like to leave until the bus is full.

Don't be surprised if your bus leaves the station and then drives around the city for several hours

trying to lure more passengers. Be extremely careful of theft on overnight buses.

Whether you travel by boat, train or bus, it's a good idea to stock up on snack foods. Shops at

stations and ports sell bottled water, fresh fruit, peanuts and candy.

Buses in most large cities are overcrowded. Taxis are available—there's now such a surplus of them

that you can hail them from the street (although in Shanghai they can be notoriously difficult to get,

especially at peak times or if it is raining); they also queue up at tourist hotels. Unfortunately, taxi

drivers don't always calculate fares honestly—it may be better to settle on a fare before getting in.

(Often just pointing at the meter will persuade the driver to use it, which gives you at least a

chance of a correct fare. Insist on it. But check that the meter has not already racked up a hefty

fare before you start your journey if you get a taxi from airports or railways stations.) Some cities

have licensed bicycle rickshaw (pedicab) drivers; they're slow and expensive but fun for a short trip.

And in most cities, you can rent a bike. (Don't worry if it breaks down—there's a repair stand at

almost every intersection.) Several cities have subways (Beijing, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Shanghai,

Wuhan, Shenzhen, Nanjing and Tianjin), although routes can be rather limited. You can rent a car in

Shanghai and Beijing, but it must be driven by someone with a Chinese driver's license.

For More Information

Tourist Offices

Canada: China National Tourist Office, 480 University Ave., Suite 806, Toronto, ON M5G 1V2.

Phone 416-599-6636. Fax 416-599-6382. http://www.tourismchina.org.

U.S.: China National Tourist Office, 350 Fifth Ave., Suite 6413, New York, NY 10118. Phone 212-

760-8218. Toll-free 888-760-8218. Fax 212-760-8809. http://www.cnto.org.

Chinese Embassies

Canada: Embassy of China, 515 St. Patrick St., Box 8935, Ottawa, ON K1N 5H3. Phone 613-789-

3434. Fax 613-789-1414. http://www.chinaembassycanada.org.

U.S.: Embassy of China, 2300 Connecticut Ave. N.W., Washington, DC 20008. Phone 202-328-

2500. Fax 202-328-0032. http://www.china-embassy.org.

Foreign Embassies in China

Canadian Embassy, 19 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chao Yang District, Beijing 100600. Phone 86-10-

6532-3536. Fax 86-10-6532-4311. http://www.canada.org.cn.

U.S. Embassy, 3 Xiu Shui Beiie, Beijing 100600. Phone 86-10-6532-3831. Fax 86-10-6532-5141.

http://www.usembassy-china.org.cn.

Additional Reading

Wild Swans by Jung Chang (HarperPerennial). A powerful nonfiction account of the turbulent lives of

three generations of Chinese women.

The Search for Modern China by Jonathan Spence (Norton). A standard work of modern Chinese

history.

Kowloon Tong: A Novel of Hong Kong by Paul Theroux (Mariner Books). A Western-centered novel

about the people left out in the cold during the transition of Hong Kong to Chinese sovereignty.

The Lost Daughters of China by Karin Evans (Tarcher).

Recommended Guidebooks

China by Damian Harper et al (Lonely Planet).

Hong Kong & Macau by Steve Fallon (Lonely Planet).

Beijing and Shanghai: China's Hottest Cities by Steven Schwankert, Paul Mooney, Peter Hibbard

(Odyssey Illustrated Guide).

The Insider's Guide to Beijing. Edited by Adam Pillsbury (True Run Media).

Trekking in Tibet: A Traveler's Guide by Gary McCue (The Mountaineers).

This Weissmann Reports report has been prepared for you by FRIENDLY PLANET TRAVEL.

No single factor in any report should be the determining factor in your decision to visit a destination. Northstar

Travel Media can make no representation or warranties regarding the accuracy of any media report.

We recommend that you contact your travel consultant, at the number located at the beginning of this report,

about the availability of a good travel insurance policy for each and every trip. Travel insurance protects you

against any number of mishaps, from lost baggage and unexpected cancellations to sickness or injury.

Remember that your own medical insurance may not be valid outside of your home country.

Travel is by its very nature an adventure into the unknown. In all instances, no matter how safe you may

perceive a destination, any destination, use your good judgment. Take precautions. The more information you

have, the better. The destination intelligence in this report is supplied and monitored by Weissmann Reports.

While we make every effort to be as thorough and accurate as possible, mistakes can and do occur. Please use

the information provided as a basis for further research and not as a definitive report on your destination. All

information is provided "as is" and without any representation or warranty.

Beijing, China, Asia

OVERVIEW

Introduction

The famous portrait of Mao Zedong still looks over this city's

shoulder, as though he's guarding communist austerity and

discipline. But the Beijing he stares out upon is hardly the city

he left behind.

Change is everywhere—in the clothes (you could wear them to

the office in London or Los Angeles); in the increasingly

paralyzing traffic (more and more European- and American-

brand automobiles jam the streets); in the electronics (mobile

phones, mobile phones, mobile phones); and in the

construction (high-rises, high-rises, high-rises). If you scrub

off the Gobi Desert dust, which is glued to everything with

diesel exhaust, you'll find the city's true patina—a mixture of

old and new. It may surprise you that you can still catch the

glimmer of an ancient, lacquered temple or a traditional

jadeite bracelet contrasted with the machine-made gleam of

chrome and glass.

No doubt it's a calculated gleam. The Chinese government wants Beijing to be recognized as a

modern world capital—modern enough for foreign investment, modern enough to host the 2008

Summer Olympics. It's a huge, burgeoning metropolis, with bulldozers carving the way to its future.

History

Beijing, planted on the edge of a fertile coastal plain, rose from agrarian roots. Nomadic tribes

invaded and destroyed it many times over the course of several centuries, but the city was always

rebuilt. By the fifth century BC, the area had developed sophisticated administrative networks under

a feudal system. It became part of a vast, technologically advanced Chinese empire that was

protected—and isolated—from the rest of the world by harsh terrain and a huge wall.

In the 13th century AD, the area emerged as a world capital when Genghis Khan seized control and

made it the center of his vast empire. The city was rebuilt as a walled enclave (for the imperial

household) surrounded by a checkerboard pattern of streets. This was the time of Marco Polo's

travels—a period of extraordinary prosperity and power in China. Khan's grandson Kublai later ruled

a huge Eurasian empire from there.

The area blossomed again with the ascension of the Ming dynasty in the 15th century. Vast sums

were spent to refurbish the city as a major capital, called Beijing. An immense imperial palace was

built, and the Great Wall was fortified and extended by millions of laborers over a period of 100

years. Many of the city's best-known artifacts are legacies from that era, when architecture, and

arts and letters flourished. The Ming were overthrown by northern invaders, the Manchu Qing, who

preserved and expanded the city during the following 300 years. Elaborate palaces and gardens still

remain from what was China's last dynasty.

A chaotic period of warlord rule followed the downfall of the last emperor in 1911. Beijing became a

flashpoint of political and cultural dissent, embodied by a student-led demonstration in 1919 and

calls for reforms in government, women's rights, science, literature and the arts. The beginning of

the Chinese Communist Party dates from this time, when a young Mao Zedong worked as a librarian

at Beijing University.

Sun Above a Roof in the Forbidden

City, Beijing

A struggle for power ensued between communists and the Nationalist Party, the leading political

force that wanted to supplant the warlords and reunify the country under a military dictatorship.

The struggle was temporarily interrupted when Japanese forces occupied the city during World War

II. But after that war ended, a civil war broke out. It ended in 1949 when communist forces entered

Beijing unopposed, and the Nationalists (led by Chiang Kai-shek) fled to Taiwan, taking the

country's entire gold reserves, many art treasures and much of the air force and navy. The People's

Republic of China was founded 1 October of that year in Beijing.

During the following decades, Beijing became the center of a new kind of empire. Mao tried to

restore central rule, instill self-sufficiency and protect the country from outsiders. He oversaw the

building of huge dams, canals and power-generating stations (instead of grand palaces and

temples), but the country was still underdeveloped compared with the Western world. A power

struggle in Beijing between moderate reformers and Mao's revolutionary socialists resulted in the

devastating Cultural Revolution in 1966 when Mao encouraged zealous Red Guards to root out his

political enemies within the Chinese Communist Party. The initiative, which lasted until Mao's death

in 1976, resulted in the persecution of many intellectuals and would-be reformers and effectively

crippled the nation's development. Since Mao's death, more moderate leaders, such as the late

premier Deng Xiaoping, have opened the doors to trade opportunities and modernization.

Today the new regime, under President Hu Jintao (who replaced Jiang Zemin in 2003), has kept in

line with the policies set in place by Deng and continued by Jiang. With its accession into the World

Trade Organization (WTO), China's economic development is progressing at breakneck speed, to the

continual amazement of the world. Trade, manufacturing, culture and real estate are booming.

However, crucial situations still loom: Taiwan, Falung Gong (a dissident religious sect), corruption,

human rights, a huge migrant worker population, pollution, overcrowding and an economy in

danger of overheating are among the problems that China must resolve in order to achieve its aims.

Beijing is now preparing for its moment in the spotlight: the 2008 Olympic Games. To China,

hosting the Olympics is an affirmation that it is a modern nation, ready to sit at the table with the

other major countries of the world. But the question is, at what price? Beijing residents and visitors

together mourn the death of many of Beijing's most charming historic areas, bulldozed to make way

for the construction of glass and steel symbols of "modernization" as the city prepares to turn its

face to the world. It's a gamble that will shape the city's character for decades beyond the 16 days

of the Olympics.

Geography

Beijing is geographically vast, exceedingly flat and largely treeless (except in parks, scenic spots

and areas around the legation quarter), with a mishmash of architectural styles. Sights of interest

to visitors are scattered. Tiananmen Square is the heart of the city, but no one would call it

downtown. We recommend traveling with a good map (printed in both Chinese and English) and

having your destinations written down in Chinese characters (ask your hotel's staff to help you). For

planning purposes, you may find it helpful to know the district where an attraction is located. For

instance, Haidian District (Beijing Zoo, Summer Palace) is to the northwest, Chaoyang District (an

embassy and nightlife area popular with expatriates) is to the east and Chongwen District (Temple

of Heaven) is to the southeast. When you're out and about, you'll discover that the city is built

along avenues aligned in a rigid grid. Roads may change their names several times as they go

across town.

Several "ring" roads form concentric circles in and around the city, with Tiananmen at the center.

Somewhat confusingly, the first is not actually a ring road—it is made up of a series of small local

streets. The Second Ring Road (Erhuan Lu) roughly follows the location of the old city wall, which

was dismantled in the 1950s. A subway line also follows this route. The Third Ring Road (Sanhuan

Lu) goes mostly through residential areas but also hits some major commercial districts, and the

Fourth Ring Road (Sihuan Lu) runs primarily through suburbs and residential districts. The Fifth and

Sixth Ring roads, which visitors are unlikely to use, effectively orbit the city.

The light-rail system makes a huge arc across the north of the city and connects Dongzhimen (in

the east) to Xizhimen (in the west) through some of the city's university areas.

Must See or Do

Sights—Tiananmen Square; the Forbidden City; the Qianmen area; the Summer Palace; the

Temple of Heaven; the Lama Temple; a day trip to the Great Wall; Shichahai.

Museums—Beijing Museum of Natural History; the National Art Museum of China; Beijing Capital

Museum.

Memorable Meals—Peking duck at Dadong Roast Duck Restaurant; a meal fit for an emperor at

Fangshan Restaurant; a Xinjiang meal at Afunti (complete with ethnic music and dance); flash-

boiled lamb at Neng Ren Ju; a Hakka meal at Lao Hanzi.

Late Night—Bars and club hopping in the Sanlitun and Houhai areas.

Walks—Make your way up Wangfujing, one of Beijing's prime shopping streets; stroll around the

lake in Beihai Park or in the hutongs (alleyways) in Dongcheng District.

Potpourri

Beijing is built on strict cosmological principles, with the Forbidden City the center point of a north-

south axis, known as a dragon's vein, which also includes Qianmen and the Drum Tower.

There are 1,000 more cars on the streets of Beijing every day.

The actress Zhang Ziyi, who starred in Memoirs of a Geisha and House of Flying Daggers, has

branched out into the restaurant business and owns an organic Japanese-fusion eatery near the

embassy district.

Space is at a premium in crowded Beijing, so many older residents keep crickets or songbirds in

cages as pets to keep them company as they pass the time in the city's parks.

SEE AND DO

Sightseeing

Visitors should make the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace and the Temple of Heaven their top

priorities. Other temples will be of interest, too. (Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have

flourished alongside one another since the first century AD. Most temples and monasteries were

damaged during the Cultural Revolution, but several have been repaired and are worth seeing.)

The city has hundreds of miles/kilometers of ancient hutongs (alleys), which are lined with housing

in Beijing's distinctive, traditional low-slung style. Just pick a direction and start walking. (See them

sooner rather than later—many hutongs are being razed to make way for modern shopping malls

and office buildings, along with a huge construction project centered around the Olympic Games in

2008.)

No trip to Beijing would be complete without seeing the Great Wall. Make it a day trip because it's

quite a drive from the city. Most tourists go to the Badaling, Mutianyu and Juyong Pass sections of

the wall, but we recommend that you check out the less visited parts at Simatai, Jinshanling,

Huanghuacheng or Lianyunling. Although they're farther away, you'll find fewer tourists and more

spectacular views. Other sights worth seeing include the recently renovated White Cloud Temple

(Baiyun Guan), the oldest Taoist temple in the world, and Fragrant Hills Park to the northwest of the

city.

Those who can't imagine visiting China without seeing a panda will want to stop at the Beijing Zoo.

Its aquarium is a sure hit with children.

Landmarks and Historic Sites

Ancient Music Center (Zhi Hua Si)

Located in Zhihua Temple, east of Nanxiaojie, the center gives performances that range from Ming

dynasty ritual music to Buddhist chants, accompanied by period instruments. The main courtyard

features Beijing's only Ming dynasty octagonal wooden pedestals. Daily 7 am-4:30 pm. Musical

show times: 9, 10 and 11 am, and 3 pm. 20 yuan (free tickets on Wednesday for the first 200

visitors). Zhihua Temple, 5 Lumicang Hutong, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6528-6691.

Azure Clouds Temple (Bi Yun Si )

Located in Fragrant Hills Park, this temple houses a stunning collection of more than 500 statues of

Buddhist Arhats. Daily 8 am-4:30 pm. 10 yuan. Fragrant Hills Park, Xiangshan, Haidian District,

Beijing. Phone 6259-1155, ext. 470.

Beijing Ancient Observatory (Guguan Xiang Tai)

This open-air observatory, established by Kublai Khan, has a history spanning three dynasties.

Chinese maritime maps and superb instruments from the Ming and Qing dynasties are displayed

along with items made by Jesuit scholar-priests in the 17th century. Tuesday 9 am-4 pm. 10 yuan

adults, 2 yuan students. Jianguomenwai Dajie (at the Second Ring Road), Dongcheng District,

Beijing. Phone 6524-2202.

Big Bell Temple (Dazhong Si)

This charming temple has a bronze bell 21 ft/7 m high, weighing more than 46 tons, that is the

biggest of its kind in China. It was cast during the reign of Emperor Yong Le (1403-24). It is said

that a shallow canal was built so that the bell could be slid over ice in the winter to the newly built

temple, which dates from 1733. Buddhist scriptures are engraved on the bell, which is considered a

national treasure. It is rung for prosperity on New Year's Eve and during the Spring Festival. Daily

8:30 am-4 pm. 10 yuan. Beisanhuanxi Road, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6255-0819.

Confucius Temple (Kong Miao)

The Confucius Temple isn't a secret, but it sees so few visitors, it seems like it is. This structure is

as much museum as it is temple. It was built during the time of Kublai Khan in honor of Confucius,

whose ideas have influenced China for more than 2,000 years. It also commemorates generations

of scholars who passed grueling three-day exams—perhaps the world's first civil-service tests—to

join the ruling elite and serve the imperial court. On the grounds are 198 tablets inscribed with the

names of the successful candidates. It also is the site of the former Imperial College, where the

emperor went to pay his respects to Confucius and to lecture on the classics. Compared with the

crowded Lama Temple, this is a wonderful, quiet place to visit, especially in spring and autumn.

Daily 8:30 am-4:30 pm. 10 yuan. Guozijian Jie, Andingmennei, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone

8401-1977.

Dongyue Miao

Set amidst the skyscrapers of Chaoyang, Dongyue is home to an amazing assortment of life-size

plaster figures depicting the 73 Chiefs of Departments and 18 Layers of Hell in the popular Taosim.

Predominately a temple of the God of Taishan Mountain, offerings can be made to the different

deities to help with everything from having a baby to getting a new car or a promotion at work. The

Beijing Folk Arts Museum is located on the premises and has regular exhibitions. Daily 8:30 am-

4:30 pm. 10 yuan; half-price for children shorter than 4 ft/1.2 m. 141 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang

District, Beijing. Phone 6551-0151.

The Drum and Bell Towers (Gu Lou and Zhong Lou)

These magnificent ancient towers have existed in various incarnations for 700 years. The Drum

Tower houses replicas of 24 giant drums that were used to announce the time during imperial days.

Today, the tower houses 25 drums that are struck for visitors every half-hour 9-11:30 am and 2-5

pm. The drum room offers a great view of the northern part of the city.

Just north of the Drum Tower is the Bell Tower—not to be confused with the Big Bell Temple. Inside

is a 500-year-old bronze bell with 4-in-/10-cm-thick walls. During Spring Festival visitors can ring

the bell for 100 yuan a pop. 9-A Zhonglouwan (at the corner of Gu Lou Dajie and Dianmenwai

Dajie), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8402-7869.

Forbidden City (Gugong)

Twenty-four emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties lived in the Forbidden City, which got its

name because it was off-limits to ordinary citizens (it's also known as the Palace Museum). It was

built in the 14th century, but because of fires and other catastrophes, has been rebuilt several

times. On the grounds are six palaces and 800 smaller buildings, reportedly containing 9,999 rooms

and halls, and hundreds of gardens. The city's design and symmetry make it an architectural

wonder.

You would need days to see all of it, but you can see its main halls in a few hours. There are a

couple of interesting museums on the grounds, including the Hall of Clocks, which contains an

amazing collection of clocks. Be aware that most of the treasures that once filled the rooms were

looted by the Japanese during World War II or were taken to Taiwan by the Nationalists in 1949.

Some of what you'll encounter is representational. Also be aware that seeing the displays can be a

challenge: Many of the rooms are dimly lit as they were when the last emperor lived there. One

anachronism: The Starbucks coffee shop situated in a building near the center of the Forbidden City

seems oddly out of place among the imperial structures and rich history. Renovation continues

throughout the complex but should not affect your ability to visit all the major attractions.

We recommend that you see the Forbidden City with an English-speaking guide who can explain the

social and political significance of the architecture. You should be able to arrange a guide through

your hotel. Alternatively, rent the audiotape narrated by actor Roger Moore. Daily 8:30 am-5:30 pm

(summer), 8:30 am-4:30 pm (winter). 60 yuan (mid-April to mid-October), 40 yuan (mid-October

to mid-April). Audio tour 40 yuan, plus 500 yuan deposit. Some exhibits, such as the Hall of Clocks

and Hall of Jewellery, require an additional 10 yuan. Changan Dajie (walk through the gate on

Tiananmen Square and pass through two courtyards to reach the ticket office), Dongcheng District,

Beijing. Phone 6513-2255, ext. 615.

The Great Wall

Built over a span of 1,100 years, the Great Wall is one of the most awesome sights in the world. It

is a paved, elevated highway that snakes across the countryside for more than 3,000 mi/4,830 km.

In some places it is wide enough for carts and horsemen to travel along the top. A barrier to

persistent invaders from the north, it also served as a dividing line between settled agriculture on

the plain and nomadic life in the mountains. It is built of brick and stone and filled with earth—and

supposedly the bodies of conscripted laborers who died building it. Much of it is in disrepair, but

several sections near Beijing have been reconstructed.

At Badaling, about 50 mi/80 km to the northwest, and at Mutianyu, 90 minutes away by car,

visitors can climb a hill or ride a cable car to the top of the wall. (At Mutianyu there's a steep walk

from the main gate.) At Juyong Pass, which is closer to the city, you'll find lots of teenagers trying

to sprint up the 350-plus steps. Badaling, Mutianyu and Juyong Pass are heavily visited and

developed, with gift shops, theaters, snack stands and even amusement-park-style rides. Note: The

government has apparently outlawed hiking along sections of the "wild wall" (unrestored sections of

the wall around Simatai and elsewhere), although people still do it. Do so at your own risk.

Some hotels will arrange a tour to any of these wall sections, but for a more unstructured visit, take

a taxi or a bus. You can easily spend a whole day at the wall: Pack a picnic lunch (take plenty of

water) and enjoy the fresh air and vistas. Be aware that temperatures at the Great Wall are almost

always cooler than in Beijing, so plan ahead in winter. A visit to the Great Wall may be most

rewarding for the physically fit (most sections offer strenuous up-and-down climbs), but just seeing

the wall is worth the trip. Admission runs about 50 yuan. Cable car fees at Mutianyu and Simatai

are extra.

Huguang Huiguan

Refurbished in 1994 to its Qing-era glory, the Huguang Huiguan originally served as a guesthouse

for scholars from southern provinces taking the imperial exams. It later evolved into an

entertainment center with lively restaurants and theater performances where famous Peking Opera

star Mei Lanfang was a regular performer. Today, visitors can catch excerpts of operas in the 300-

seat theater. Daily 9 am-7:30 pm. Performance time daily 7:30-8:40 pm. 10 yuan (museum), 150

yuan-580 yuan (performance). 3 Hufang Lu, Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 6351-8284.

Lama Temple (Yonghegong Lamasery)

Former imperial palaces like this one, built in 1694, were converted to religious sites according to

Chinese tradition. The architecture and ornamentation of these buildings show the influence of Han,

Manchu, Mongolian and Tibetan styles, and there's a striking 59-ft/18-m statue of the Maitreya

(future) Buddha, carved from a single sandalwood tree. The temple was once an important center of

Tibetan Lamaism, and some 200 monks still live, study and pray there. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm.

Admission 25 yuan, audio tour 25 yuan. 12 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone

6404-4499.

Prince Gong's Mansion

Built in 1777 by an official of the Qianlong period, this compound became the home of the last

emperor's father, Prince Gong. The estate is filled with beautiful rock gardens and lily ponds.

Visitors can catch regular Peking opera performances in the theater with the 60-yuan package tour.

It is a popular stop for Chinese tourists and can be overrun with visitors in the summer. Daily 8:30

am-4:30 pm. 20 yuan, 60 yuan (with guide). 17 Qianhai Xijie, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone

6616-8149.

Summer Palace (Yiheyuan)

Once the summer home for the emperor and his court, the palace consists of a series of less-formal

buildings nestled in a hilly, wooded setting on a splendid lake, with gardens, bridges, pavilions, halls

and towers. Though its contents were plundered, the Summer Palace recalls the opulent lifestyle of

the privileged few during Qing times. Look for the marble replica of a boat, which was built by an

empress using funds meant to modernize the navy. The Long Corridor, a covered 2,275-ft/700-m

wooden walkway along the lake, is painted in extraordinary detail. It takes you from one great

photo opportunity to the next—most tour groups walk through far too quickly. You can also take a

dragon-boat ride on the lake, but it's a pretty slow ride and usually is jammed with tourists. In

winter, visitors often ignore official warnings and use the frozen lake as a shortcut walkway through

the palace grounds. Don't miss the tri-level opera stage favored by the Empress Dowager near the

east gate (it's worth the extra 10 yuan to see it). Daily 7 am-5 pm. 30 yuan (April-October), 20

yuan (November-March). Yiheyuan Lu, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6288-1144.

Temple of Heaven (Tiantan)

Located in spacious Tiantan Park, south of the central city, the Temple of Heaven is less a religious

site than a historical one. Dating from the 15th century, it was where the emperor made an annual

pilgrimage, complete with a huge entourage, to pray for good harvests (commoners were prohibited

from viewing the ceremonies). It is made up of several circular, blue-tiled buildings. The color blue

represents the heavens. The crown jewel is the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest, which stands on a

square marble terrace (representing the earth). Amazingly, the three-story building was fitted

together without a single nail, peg or bit of cement. It was reconstructed in the 19th century after a

fire destroyed the original. The whole park easily lends itself to a self-guided walking tour. Take a

taxi there, pay at the entrance, find a map (usually near the entrance) and then wander to your

heart's content. Daily 8 am-6 pm. 15 yuan (park only), 35 yuan (all access). Yongdingmen Dajie

(south gate), Chongwen District, Beijing. Phone 6702-8866.

Temple of the Azure Clouds (Biyun Si)

Built during the Mongol Yuan dynasty (1271-1368), this temple contains religious statuary and the

Diamond Throne Pagoda. It's the most magnificent of the temples in Beijing's western hills. It's

especially nice in the spring, when surrounded by blossoms. Daily 8 am-4:30 pm. 10 yuan. Inside

the north entrance to Fragrant Hills Park, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6259-1155, ext. 7470.

Tiananmen Square (Tiananmen Guangchang)

This huge, open space (covering 122 acres/49 hectares) is the heart of Beijing. It really doesn't

merit a special trip. Most travelers will see it while passing through the city or while visiting the

Forbidden City, which can be accessed through the Gate of Heavenly Peace. Said to hold as many as

1 million people, Tiananmen Square was where Mao Zedong inaugurated the revolutionary People's

Republic of China in 1949 and where, 40 years later, the government used tanks to cut down

reform-minded students. Mao's picture—painted anew four times a year—hangs above the entrance.

Mao's Mausoleum is behind the Monument to the People's Heroes, on the square. On the square's

south side is a 15th-century gate (Qianmen) that once was part of an outer wall surrounding the

city. The Great Hall of the People lies on the west side of the square.

White Cloud Temple (Baiyun Guan)

The world's oldest Taoist temple—also the center of Taoism in north China—is located among the

smokestacks of southern Beijing. Monks are still in residence, and every February during the spring

festival, a temple fair is held there. Inside, you'll find an amazingly tranquil world of exotic deity

statues, religious artifacts of the Ming and Qing dynasties, and long-haired Taoist priests. A

meditation chamber is open to the public for chanting four times a day at 8:30 and 10 am, and 2

and 3:30 pm. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm. 10 yuan. 6 Baiyunguan Jie, Xibianmenwai, Xuanwu District,

Beijing. Phone 6346-3531.

White Pagoda Temple (Bai Ta Si)

This temple is known for its dagoba, a reliquary said to hold a part of the Buddha's body. A

pagodalike structure, the dagoba was built by Lamaists from Tibet during the time of Kublai Khan,

but the building dates from the Qing dynasty. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm. 10 yuan. Fuxingmennei Street,

Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6616-0211. http://www.bjtwst.org.cn.

Museums

Arthur M. Sackler Museum

Located on the campus of Peking University (Beida), this collection spans 280,000 years from the

Paleolithic period to the Qing dynasty. On display are exquisite Shang dynasty bronzes and pottery

from the Tang and Song dynasties. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm. 20 yuan. Inside Peking University campus,

Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6275-1667. http://www.sackler.org/china/amschina.htm.

Beijing Capital Museum

This modern museum opened its doors officially in December 2005 and is a wonderful exhibition

space for a quite diverse collection of artifacts relating to Beijing's past and present. This eclecticism

means it is also a good place to see visiting exhibitions, ranging from Italian Renaissance treasures

to contemporary British art. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Ticket prices 20 yuan-30 yuan. 16 Fuxingmenwai

Dajie, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6337-0491 or 8610-6337-0492.

Beijing Museum of Natural History (Ziran Buowuguan)

The largest of its kind in China, this museum contains fossils or specimens of almost all plants and

animals found in China, including such prehistoric ones as the woolly mammoth and Tyrannosaurus

rex. Squeamish visitors and those traveling with children may want to skip the third floor, where

exhibits on human anatomy have been created from dissected cadavers suspended in

formaldehyde. Daily 8:30 am-5 pm. 15 yuan adults. 126 Tianqiao Nandajie, Chongwen District,

Beijing. Phone 6702-4431. http://www.bmnh.org.cn.

The Chinese Military History Museum

See 5,000 years' worth of war paraphernalia: AK-47s, flame throwers, tanks, ancient weaponry,

uniforms and even American U2 spy plane wreckage. A military buff's paradise. Daily 7:30 am-5:30

pm. 20 yuan. 9 Fuxing Road, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6686-6244.

National Art Museum of China (Zhongguo Meishu Guan)

Founded in 1959, this renovated museum has permanent exhibits of works by Chinese artists and

frequent shows by foreign artists in 14 huge exhibition halls. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 20 yuan. 1 Wusi

Dajie (north of Wangfujing), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6401-7076.

Neighborhoods and Districts

Hutongs

The ancient hutongs (alleys) afford a glimpse of old China that is quickly disappearing. Traditional

courtyard homes, known as siheyuans, were built according to principles of order and harmony

dating from the second century BC. Their outside walls form the alleys. The hutongs that remain are

most plentiful near the Forbidden City and the Second Ring Road at Andingmen. (Subtle

architectural details differentiate homes of the wealthy from those of commoners or merchants.) We

recommend a visit to the back lanes (houhai) north of Beihai Park, where you can find such famous

hutongs as Yichi Dajie (Beijing's shortest) and Qianshi Hutong (the city's narrowest). The alleys are

fine for exploration, but the courtyards themselves are private. Remember to take along your

hotel's card with the name written in Chinese in case you get lost and need directions back. For

more information about touring hutongs, contact the Beijing Hutong Tourist Agency. You can rent a

pedicab from them, complete with an English-speaking guide. 26 Dianmen Xilu, Xicheng District,

Beijing. Phone 6615-3236.

Qianmen (Dazhalan) Area

Qianmen means "front gate," and the Qianmen area is named for the front gate of the old walled

city, which was left standing after the walls themselves were demolished. In Ming times,

establishments that were banned within city walls—including theaters, brothels, and certain shops

and restaurants—found a niche there. The Qianmen area also served as the route for the emperor's

yearly procession from the Forbidden City to the Temple of Heaven to pray for a good harvest. The

opportunity for a glimpse of "authentic" Beijing is what draws visitors. (Some shops have been in

existence since the Ming era.) Today, the area is a busy shopping district, which includes such

landmarks as the Tongrentang pharmacy, where you can purchase traditional herbs and medicines,

and Liubiju, which sells traditional sweets and pickled vegetables. The imposing Qianmen Gate is

itself worth seeing. Just south of Tiananmen Square, Beijing.

Parks and Gardens

Although many of the more affluent parts of the city have been gentrifying in recent years, Beijing

is still by and large a gritty, crowded metropolis largely bereft of attractive landscaping in most

neighborhoods and business districts. But the city boasts numerous large, beautiful parks—usually

consisting of concrete walkways through areas of trees—that draw locals and visitors for strolling,

tai chi chuan, picnics and other activities. (In some, you'll find older Chinese doing their daily

exercises on colorful apparatuses that resemble children's playground equipment.)

Beihai Park (Beihai Gongyuan)

Located northwest of the Forbidden City, this park has an 800-year history as the royal garden—and

playground—of the Jin, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. It was also the site of Kublai Khan's imperial

palace and court, now destroyed. The park is grand and sprawling, with some beautiful landscaping,

a lake and paddleboats for rent by the hour (10 yuan). Visit at 6 am to see hundreds of people

practicing tai chi chuan, or enjoy a meal fit for the emperor at the Fangshan Restaurant in the

center of the park. Daily 6 am-8 pm. 10 yuan (park), 20 yuan (all access). 1 Wenjin Jie, Xicheng

District, Beijing. Phone 6403-1102.

Beijing Botanical Garden

Situated in western Beijing, the botanical garden offers a nice green retreat from the smog and

chaos of city life. Attractions include a huge, modern greenhouse stocked with flowers of all shapes

and sizes, quaint promenades and plenty of sleepy pavilions where you can rest and reflect. Wofosi

(the Temple of the Reclining Buddha), which dates back to the Tang dynasty, is also in the park,

where you can check out its rather large namesake. Daily 6 am-7 pm (summer), 7 am-6 pm

(winter). 5 yuan for the park, additional 5 yuan for Wofosi. Wofosi Lu, Xiangshan, Haidian District,

Beijing. Phone 6259-1283.

Coal Hill (Jing Shan Park)

Just north of the Forbidden City, this artificial hill was created from soil excavated to create the

moat around the imperial compound. This is where Chong Zhen, the last emperor of the then-

unraveling Ming dynasty, hanged himself from a tree as the Manchus were streaming into the city.

Now a park, it was once the highest vantage point in Beijing. The Ten Thousand Springs Pavilion at

the summit affords a lovely panoramic view that includes the Forbidden City and is the perfect spot

to watch the sunset. Nice flowers in season, and good for strolling. Daily 6 am-9 pm April and May;

6 am-10 pm June-August; 6 am-midnight September and October; 6:30 am-8 pm November-

March. 5 yuan. 1 Wenjin St. (north of Forbidden City), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6404-

4071.

Fragrant Hills Park (Xiangshan)

This park is a favorite place for hiking, especially in autumn when the changing leaves make for

spectacular scenery. Once the emperors' hunting grounds, it has remnants of temples and pavilions

to visit along the trail. If you have the energy, climb to the peak to watch the sunrise. Many elderly

Beijingers practice tai chi chuan and sing on the peak at dawn. The park is also home to the

beautiful Azure Clouds temple. Daily 6 am-6:30 pm (winter), 6 am-sunset (summer). 10 yuan.

Xiangshan, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6259-1155.

Zoos and Wildlife

Beijing Aquarium (Beijing Haiyang Guan)

Opened in 1999, the aquarium at the Beijing Zoo is a state-of-the-art facility. It features themed

exhibits of fresh- and saltwater aquatic life, a rain forest with pools of fish, a shark tank, and shows

featuring dolphins and sea lions. We think it's much better than the Blue Zoo. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 100

yuan adults, 50 yuan children, free for children under 4 ft/1.2 m tall. Prices include zoo admission.

108 Gaoliangqiao Xijie, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 62-1766-5590. http://www.bj-sea.com.

Beijing Zoo (Beijing Dongwuyuan)

The zoo is known for its pandas, but it's not a modern zoo by any standard, although conditions in

some of the displays (most notably the ones housing primates) have been improved. Still, the

weeping willows, bamboo groves and placid ponds provide a pleasant setting. The grounds date

from the 17th century, when it was a garden for one of the Qing emperor's sons. It was later

converted to a park, but the Empress Dowager Cixi refurbished it to house animals given to her as

gifts. Many were stuffed after they died and then put on display. Today, you'll see only live animals

at the zoo. Daily 7:30 am-5 pm (winter), 7:30 am-6 pm (summer). 10 yuan (winter), 15 yuan

(summer), 5 yuan for the Panda House, free for children under 4 ft/1.2 m tall. 137 Xizhimenwai,

Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6839-0274. http://www.bjzoo.com.

Blue Zoo Beijing

A joint venture between China and New Zealand, this aquarium is popular with children. The main

attraction is a 420-ft-/130-m-long moving walkway underneath the main tank, which provides great

views of sharks and other creatures swimming by. Most children want at least two passes along the

walkway. A local company, SinoScuba, organizes scuba diving at the Blue Zoo; no previous diving

experience is required (phone 369-302-8913; http://www.sinoscuba.com). Daily 8 am-8 pm. 75

yuan adults, 50 yuan for children younger than 12, free for children under 3 ft/1 m tall. South Gate

of Workers' Stadium, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6591-3397, ext. 1560. http://www.blue-

zoo.com.

Recreation

With the recent emergence of a class of young, upwardly mobile Beijingers and the influx of visitors

from other countries, recreational facilities have blossomed throughout the city. Most major hotels

catering to foreigners have modern exercise equipment (weights, cardio machines) and swimming

pools. However, the Chinese are learning through trial and error, so prices and amenities often

change. Ask at your hotel about aerobics classes, instruction in tai chi chuan, ballroom dancing,

yoga and other organized activities that are showing up around town. There are also modern

fitness-center franchises, similar to Bally's Total Fitness and Australia's Evolution Spa and Fitness,

located mostly in the Chaoyang District. Most of these places require memberships.

Golf

Golf has become the latest sporting craze in China. You can get plenty of information (and advice)

about golf in the Beijing area at Frank's Place, which is located near the Lido. The attendants at the

golf courses may not speak English, so you may need an interpreter to reserve tee times. Greens

fees range 80 yuan-600 yuan during the week, 100 yuan-1,000 yuan on weekends. You'll need to

reserve a tee time on weekends.

Beijing International Golf Club

Beijing's first golf club is located near the Ming Tombs River and Reservoir. Daily 7 am-7 pm. For

nonmembers, men pay 800 yuan on weekdays and women pay 480 yuan on weekdays; both sexes

pay 1,400 on weekends. Northwest of Ming Tombs Reservoir, Changping District, Beijing. Phone

6076-2288.

Beijing Pine Valley International Golf Club

This truly spectular course hosted the Johnnie Walker Classic in 2006. Designed by Jack Nicklaus,

the 7,300-yd/6,675-m course has a driving range, swimming pool, tennis court and other

amenities. Daily 11 am-4:30 pm in winter, 7 am-sunset in summer. Course is only open to

members. Pine Valley Resort, Nankou Town, Changping District, Beijing. Phone 8528-8038.

Chaoyang Kosaido Golf Club (Guang Ji Tang Golf)

This nine-hole course is one of the most conveniently located in town. Chiefly useful for the driving

range to keep your swing in shape. Daily 7:30 am-4:30 pm. 230 yuan weekdays, 290 yuan

weekends. Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6501-8584.

Horseback Riding

There are several places for horseback riding outside of Beijing. The most popular is the Kangxi

Grasslands, about 50 mi/80 km north of the city. But Bashang, a large grasslands area 185 mi/300

km north of Beijing in Hebei province, is considered one of the finest locations. The easiest way to

go is to join an organized tour group.

Equuleus Riding Club

Located out near the Beijing Riviera villa complex, this school is popular with expatriate children.

Cost is 300 yuan for 45 minutes. North of and parallel to Xiang Jiang Beilu, off Jingshun Lu, Beijing.

Phone 6438-4947.

High Club

Accommodations are usually Mongolian-style yurts. Take warm clothing, as temperatures are

considerably lower in the grasslands than in Beijing. 270 yuan and up for a weekend trip,

accommodations are 50 yuan-150 yuan. Phone 5166-8022 or 8580-5080.

Other Options

Tai chi chuan evolved from an ancient Chinese martial art known as qigong and is believed to

integrate mind, body and spirit. Practitioners move through a series of continuous, rhythmic

exercises, called forms, which resemble slow-moving ballet. Benefits of tai chi include reducing

stress, promoting balance and flexibility, and even easing arthritis pain.

Tai chi is gaining popularity around the world, but the best way to learn it is straight from the

source.

Tai Chi Workshop

Offers tai chi chuan lessons. Lessons in traditional sword and fan dancing also can be arranged.

English translation is provided. Lessons offered Wednesday-Friday 7-8 pm. 50 yuan per hour. First

Floor Health Club, CTS Plaza, Sanyuanqiao, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 130-0103-9563.

Tianyi Kung Fu

Offers Shaolin Kung Fu (based on Zen buddhist philosophy) and Xingyi Kung Fu (based on

philosophical Taoism) lessons, as well as tai chi chuan instruction. Open Tuesday and Thursday

7:30-9 pm; Sunday 3:30 pm-5 pm. Beijing City International School, 77 Baiziwan Nanerlu, Beijing.

Phone 130-5113-8804. http://www.tianyikungfu.com.

DayTrips

To the Ming Tombs. Those visiting the Badaling or Juyong Pass sections of the Great Wall often

combine the trip with a stop at the Ming Tombs. Located about 30 mi/50 km northwest of Beijing,

the tombs can be seen in about an hour. We're not sure they're worth even that much time, but

they would definitely appeal to history buffs. They're not stunning to look at (don't be misled by the

name Ming) and, unlike Egyptian tombs, they are not elaborately decorated. The only tomb open to

the public is that of Emperor Wanli (1573-1620). Valuables buried with the emperor and his

concubines are displayed in a museum nearby. The pavilions marking other tombs can be seen from

there. The roads leading to the tombs (called the Spirit Way) are guarded by huge stone animals

and are one of the most intriguing aspects of the visit. You can get there by taxi or tour bus, which

can be arranged by your hotel.

To Hong Luo Si (Red Snail Temple). Located just north of Huairou, these pine-forested hills are

home to the largest Buddhist temple in northern China and the Pearl Spring. The name derives from

a legend about two giant red snails inhabiting the area. In warm months, visitors can go boating

and swimming in the Hongluo Reservoir. Arrange for transportation through your hotel.

To Long Qing Gorge. A scenic gorge about 50 mi/80 km northeast of the city center, Long Qing

has attracted tourists since the Ming dynasty. The area covers 45 sq mi/115 sq km and is bisected

by a long river flanked by cliffs and waterfalls. Vertical rock formations rise above the mist on the

river, creating the quintessential Chinese landscape. You can hike or take a boat tour to look at the

scenery. A hired car (supplied with a driver at a day or half-day rate) is the best way to reach the

gorge. You can negotiate a price with most cab drivers.

To Zhoukoudian and the Peking Man Site. This famous archaeological site, 30 mi/48 km

southwest of Beijing, is where archaeologists have found evidence of people living in the Beijing

area 700,000 years ago. Finds from the dig are displayed in an exhibition hall. Arrange for

transportation through your hotel.

To Badachu Park. This lovely park has eight ancient temples and a profusion of apricot trees that

bloom in spring. A chairlift will take you into the hills. Inside the pagoda of the second temple

(Temple of the Sacred Light) is a holy relic reputed to be a tooth of the Buddha. Visitors usually go

to Badachu and Fragrant Hills parks on the same trip. About 15 mi/24 km west of downtown

Beijing. Take Bus 347 from the Beijing Zoo.

Local Tours

You can book local tours through your hotel's travel desk or the China International Travel Service.

Many tours are available, but be aware that your ability to customize a tour may be limited.

China International Travel Service

This is China's main tourism organization, with staff in most of the major hotels who can help you

with tour arrangements. Its most popular tour is a three-day package tour that hits all the major

sites (Forbidden City, Great Wall, Temple of Heaven, Lama Temple and hutongs tours) and includes

a Peking duck dinner and an acrobatics performance. Also offers shorter day tours that hit a

selection of the major sites and tours of individual sites, which can be customized to suit your

needs. Day tours run Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Tour prices vary. A three-day tour is 1,110

yuan per person for a group of four, including meals and performances. Discounts for larger groups.

1 Dongdan Bei Dajie, Wangfu Fandia (655 ft/200 m east of the Peninsula Plaza Hotel), Beijing.

Phone 8610-8522-8888. http://www.cits.com.cn.

Chinese Culture Club

This community group organizes cultural activities, lectures and tours, and has proven to be very

popular with Beijing's expat community. Some of their tours include visits to the Confucius Temple,

boat rides on the Imperial Canal and day trips to small villages outside of Beijing. Two-and-a-half-

hour tours start at 40 yuan. Phone 6432-9341. http://www.chinesecultureclub.org/Tour/tour.htm.

Hutong Tour

For those who wish to see Beijing as it was during its days as a walled city, a three-hour tour

(sponsored by the Beijing Hutong Tourist Agency) visits the hutongs (alleyways) created by the

traditional Beijing courtyard-style architecture. The tour includes a view of one of the city's older

areas from the Drum Tower; a visit to the 700-year-old Guang Hua Temple; and snacks and tea at

Prince Gong's Mansion, a former imperial residence. You'll travel by foot and by three-wheeled

bicycle rickshaws. Daily at 9 am and 2 pm. Reservations office open Monday-Friday 9 am-5:30 pm.

180 yuan. The tour starts on West Di'anmen Street (west of the north entrance of Beihai Park),

Beijing. Phone 6615-9097.

WildChina

Offers unique adventures around Beijing and across China. Phone 6465-6602, ext. 314.

http://www.wildchina.com.

DINING

Both the variety and quality of Beijing's restaurants may surprise you. The city had fewer than 700

restaurants when Mao Zedong died in 1976 (restaurants were considered bourgeois), but energetic

entrepreneurs have boosted that number considerably. Today, you'll find thousands of restaurants

serving the cuisines of the world. Western chains are increasingly popping up, as well—not just

McDonald's, but the likes of Starbucks, Outback Steakhouse, Tony Roma's and T.G.I. Friday's, too.

If your itinerary will take you only to Beijing, you can visit the different regions of China by

sampling their representative foods—from fiery Szechuan cuisine to the milder Cantonese (dim

sum). Do try a restaurant specializing in Beijing (Peking) duck.

If you wish to save money or if you are adventurous, you may want to try street food in Beijing.

Although most health organizations discourage this, visitors do it all the time—usually with mixed

results. Our advice: The night market at Donghuamen is usually safe and is an exotic, delicious

dining experience. Exercise good judgment when it comes to the small food stalls along the street,

however. If no one's buying or if it looks at all unclean, don't take the risk.

Generally, lunch is served 11 am-2 pm. Restaurants then close and reopen for dinner 6-10 pm. A

few places stay open without a break, 11 am-10 pm, and there are more places that stay open late.

Less-expensive restaurants almost never have English speakers on staff. Usually reservations are

not required unless you have more than five people in your party or it's a holiday. Credit cards are

not widely accepted.

Note: Do not tip at restaurants. It's not expected and may even be construed as offensive. Some

restaurants add a 15% service charge, which is sufficient to cover any gratuity.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including

drinks and tax: $ = less than 100 yuan; $$ = 100 yuan-200 yuan; $$$ = more than 200 yuan.

Favorites

Beijing Da Dong Roast Duck Restaurant

Near the embassy district, Da Dong is less romantic perhaps than Liqun, but it makes up for this

with a bustling atmosphere and a broader range of homestyle dishes to go with the roast duck.

Daily 11 am-10 pm. Building 3, Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dongsanhuan Lu, southeast corner of Changhong

Qiao, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6582-2892.

The Courtyard (Si He Yuan)

The Courtyard is a magnificent upscale restaurant set on the banks of the Forbidden City's moat.

Housed in a tastefully decorated, gray stone building with exposed ceiling beams and well-worn

leather armchairs in the upstairs cigar bar. Works by local contemporary artists are on display. The

decidedly European menu is inventive and changes regularly, but the salmon is a constant favorite.

Daily for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 95 Donghuamen parking lot (adjacent to the

Forbidden City), Beijing. Phone 6526-8883.

Crab Apple House (Hai Tang Ju)

The centerpiece of this converted Ming dynasty courtyard is a 100-year-old tree set amidst the

refined traditional settings. The menu offerings are classified as si jia cai, meaning that many of the

dishes are unique to the restaurant. Try the huang jiu (yellow wine) and yi tiao lu buo—a delicious

dish made from a single giant turnip. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 9 pm). $$. No credit cards. 32

Xiheyan, Xuanwumen, Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 8315-4678.

Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant (Li Qun Kao Ya)

Owner Mr. Li was the head chef at Quanjude in the early 1990s before he branched out on his own.

His small restaurant is great for out-of-towners who want to experience a Peking duck meal in an

authentic old Beijing (albeit decrepit) setting. Best to have a Chinese-speaking guide with you, as

the place is tricky to find in the winding hutongs. Get there soon: The neighborhood where Liqun is

located could be demolished at any time. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 10 pm). Reservations

required. $$. No credit cards. 11 Beixiangfeng, Zhengyi Lu (northeast of Qianmen), Dongcheng

District, Beijing. Phone 6705-5578.

Red Capital Club

Housed in a lovingly renovated, traditional courtyard dwelling, this is the place to splurge on a meal

fit for emperors. The menu is crammed with Beijing favorites. Nostalgia is the watchword there: The

Red Capital Club features a 1950s-era cigar and cocktail lounge. (Pick up the retro-style black

phone and listen to speeches by Mao Zedong.) Daily for dinner (closes at midnight). $$$. Most

major credit cards. 66 Dongsi Jiutiao, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6402-7150.

South Silk Road

One of the see-and-be-seen places frequented by Beijing's bobo (bourgeois bohemian) set. This

restaurant, opened by famous contemporary Chinese artist Fang Lijun, serves Yunnan-style dishes

with an urban twist. Try the water-dipped fish (zhanshuiyu) and the famous rice wine (mi jiu).

Funky, modern and hip. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 10:30 pm). $$. No credit cards. Lotus

Lane (Hehua Shichang), Shichahai, Qianhai Xiyan, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 8580-4286.

Three Guizhou Men (San Guizhou Ren)

This chic favorite of the city's bohemian crowd is the brainchild of three artists from Guizhou

province and is famed for its fiery cuisine. Don't miss the fragrant peppermint salad (xiangban

bohe) and the sour fish soup (suantangyu). Daily for lunch and dinner. $. Most major credit cards.

Jianwei Soho Building 3, 39 Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 5869-0598.

Local and Regional

Afunti

This restaurant has become so popular that reservations are necessary almost every night of the

week. The primary dish is lamb, served in any number of styles—as roasted kebabs (yang rou

chuan), roasted and stir-fried (chao kao yang rou) or served with chopped noodles and vegetables

(chao mian pian). The lamb tends to be spicy, so those with sensitive palates should choose stir-

fried, rather than roasted, dishes. Sample the rose wine—a light, fruity beverage with only a slight

kick. Dinner becomes a real event after 7:30 pm, when the resident Uighur musicians pick up their

instruments. They're joined on stage by gyrating Uighur dancers. Be warned: Afunti is difficult to

find. A taxi is the best way to get there. English menus available. Daily for lunch and dinner (last

order 10:30 pm). Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 2 Houguaibang Hutong,

Chaoyangmennei Avenue, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6525-1071.

Bellagio

This super-hip dining spot specializes in Taiwanese cuisine and caters to a late-night hipster set.

Nice decor and tasty food—try the Chongqing spicy chicken (Chongqing laziji) and the famous ice

snaps (bao bing) for dessert. Take along your laptop: Bellagio outlets offer free wireless Internet

connections. Two locations. Daily 24 hours. $$. Most major credit cards. 35 Xiaoyunlu (next to Kiss

Disco), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8451-9988.

Ding Ding Xiang

A refreshingly clean and modern environment serves up some of the best mutton hot pot in

Beijing—fresh slices of lamb, searing broth and great sauces make this the perfect meal for cold

weather. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order midnight). $$. No credit cards. First floor, 14

Dongzhong Jie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6417-2546.

Fangshan Restaurant

This exquisite restaurant inside historical Beihai Park serves imperial cuisine like the royals used to

eat. The perfect tourist trap without the tackiness. Daily for dinner (last order 8 pm). $$$. Most

major credit cards. 1 Wenjin Jie (inside Beihai Park), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6401-1889.

Fei Teng Yu Xiang

The yuppies all flock to this chain of Szechuan restaurants that specializes in the perennially popular

water-boiled fish (shui zhu hu), a spicy concoction of fish, peppers and bean sprouts. Also try the

spicy crab (xiang la xie) and spicy snails (fu shou luo). Expect long lines. Daily for lunch and dinner

(last order 10:30 pm). $$. No credit cards. 1 Gongti Beilu, 36 Xingfu Yicun Sixiang (off of Chunxiu

Lu), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6415-3764.

Fu Jia Lou

Get a taste of old Beijing at this traditional-style restaurant replete with robed waiters who yell out

a greeting when you walk inside. Try the zha jiang mian noodles and the selection of old Beijing

street foods. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. No credit cards. Dongsi Shitiao (655 ft/200 m west of

Poly Plaza), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8403-7831.

Kaorou Ji

Right in the middle of the Houhai nightlife district, this restaurant is a Beijing institution. It offers

cuisine of the Chinese Muslim minority, specializing in barbecued lamb and steamed sesame buns.

Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 11 pm). $. 14 Qianhai Dongyan, Xicheng District, Beijing.

Phone 6404-2554.

Kong Yiji

Great Shaoxing (a town in Zhejiang province) style cuisine at these restaurants named for the

downtrodden character in a Lu Xun short story. Try the zui xia drunken shrimp (eaten raw and

wriggling) if you dare. The more picturesque Houhai location, set by the lake, is the best one to visit

when you tour the surrounding hutongs. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 10 pm). $$. No credit

cards. South bank of Houhai, Shichahai, Deshengmennei Dajie, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone

6618-4917.

Lao Hanzi

The Hakka people of China's southern provinces have developed one of the country's most

interesting cuisines, using the freshest ingredients. This faux-rustic setting is an ideal place to savor

traditional Hakka fare. Fish dishes can be excessively salty. A second location in Qianhai (called Han

Cang) has scenic views of Shichahai lake. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. Opposite

north gate of Beihai Park, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6404-2259.

Mei Fu

This beautifully converted courtyard complex serves up dishes that were enjoyed by legendary

Peking Opera star Mei Lanfang back in the 1930s. Set menus selected by the chef come in three

price ranges and tend toward the Shanghai style of cooking. Guesthouse on the premises. Daily for

lunch and dinner (last order 9:30 pm). $$$. Most major credit cards. 24 Daxiangfeng Hutong (south

bank of Houhai), Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6612-6847.

Neng Ren Ju

Flash-boiled lamb (shuan yang rou), a variation on the Szechuan hot pot, shows the influence the

nomadic Mongolian people have had on Chinese culture. A self-contained kettle is set to boil, and

spices and vegetables are added to create a soup base. The main dish is lamb, but beef, vegetables

and rice vermicelli can be added as well. After cooking, each piece is dipped into a peanut sauce

flavored with cilantro and chili oil. The restaurant is not easy to find, but it's so famous that most

drivers and hotel personnel know it. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. 5 Taipingqiao,

Baitasi, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6595-7241.

Qianmen Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant

This is the most elegant of the Quanjude chain of restaurants, but it's also more expensive. The

cheapest way to go is right next door, where the same kitchen does the same exquisite duck for

about one-quarter of the price (served fast-food style or as takeout). Either way, don't overlook the

asparagus. Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 32 Qianmen Dajie, Dongcheng

District, Beijing. Phone 6511-2418.

The Xinjiang Red Rose (Hong Meigui Canting)

The Red Rose serves delicious Uighur food in a lively atmosphere. The lamb kebabs and the house

band are big draws. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 11 pm). $. No credit cards. Xinfu Yicun

Qixiang (in a small alley across from the Workers' Stadium), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone

6415-5741.

Cuisines

Asian

Hatsune

Consistently one of the most popular Japanese restaurants in Beijing, Hatsune serves up California-

style fusion sushi in a sleek modern environment—one of the few places in town that serves fresh

avocados with its rolls. Daily for lunch and dinner. Most major credit cards. Heqiao Dasha,

Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6581-3939.

Meshiya

Renowned by Japanese and Gaijin alike for its authentic Japanese cuisine, this upscale restaurant

serves Kyoto-style Japanese food, specializing in fresh fish dishes. Daily for lunch and dinner. Most

major credit cards. Go south from China World (Guomao) and cross to the east side of the street

next to the Yanyuan Hotel, Beijing. Phone 6771-0218.

Phrik Thai

This cozy, stylish eatery serves excellent Thai food—try the milk tea and the delicious green curry.

Conveniently located near the embassy area. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. The

Gateway Building, 10 Yabao Lu (across from the Bank of China), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone

8561-5236.

Red Basil

Despite the garish sign outside, this is a stylish Thai restaurant in a city not known for its style. It's

definitely not another Cantonese restaurant dressed up with a bit of coconut milk added here and

there. Reasonably priced, with excellent service. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit

cards. Building No. 8, Zuojiazhuang, Third Ring Road (just southeast of San Yuan Bridge near the

Hilton Hotel), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6460-2339.

Serve the People

Serves some of the best Thai and Southeast Asian food in town. The artistically decorated dining

room is a bit small, but it's conveniently located and a great place to dine before sampling the local

nightlife. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. No credit cards. Sanlitun Bar Street, Chaoyang District,

Beijing. Phone 8454-4580.

Sorabol

There are three Sorabol Korean restaurants in Beijing. Filling standards: kalbi (short ribs), bulgogi

(barbecued beef) and mandu (dumplings filled with ground pork, kimchi, spring onions and bean

curd). Vegetable side dishes are a meal in themselves. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. 2-F Landmark

Towers, 8 Dongsanhuan Bei Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6590-6688, ext. 5119.

Continental

Aria

One of the most popular upscale dining venues with the business lunch crowd. Swanky

environment. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 10 pm). Bar is open 11 am-1 am. $$$. Most

major credit cards. 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District, Beijing.

Phone 6505-2266, ext. 36.

Morel's

Beijing institution serving delicious Belgian dishes, including veal, steak tartare, juicy mussels and,

of course, waffles. Terrific selection of Belgian beers. Two locations. Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and

dinner (last order 10:30 pm). Bar closes at 1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Gongti Beilu (across

from the north gate of the Workers Gymnasium at the Chunxiu Lu intersection), Chaoyang District,

Beijing. Phone 6416-8802.

French

Brasserie Flo

Just like a French brasserie, from the well-prepared steaks to the onion soup to the comprehensive

wine list. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order midnight). $$$. Rainbow Plaza, 16 Dongsanhuan Lu,

Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6595-5135.

German

Schindler's Filling Station

Authentic German food featuring sausages, sauerkraut, German beers (the draft Wernesgruner is

only 16 yuan) and outstanding oven-roasted pork knuckles. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order

midnight). $$. 15A Guanghua Lu (east of Ritan Park south gate in the Ritan Office Building),

Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8562-6439.

Italian

Adria's

This Italian restaurant is known for its 18 varieties of wood-fired pizza. Daily for lunch and dinner.

$$. Most major credit cards. 16 Xinyuan Lu, 984 ft/300 m north of Capital Mansion, Chaoyang

District, Beijing. Phone 6460-0896.

Danieli's

Big, comfy chairs and excellent service. A good choice for entertaining, business lunches or

dinners—it definitely makes the right impression. But frankly, for the price, the food should be much

better. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 10 pm). $$$. Most major credit cards. 22 Jianguomenwai

Dajie, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6460-6688, ext. 2441.

Gisa (Ji Sa)

Great home-style Italian food served by Gisa herself, proud owner of Beijing's only dairy farm that

specializes in European-style cheeses. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 11 pm). $$. Most major credit

cards. 1 Nongzhan Nanlu (by the west gate of Chaoyang Park), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone

6594-0938.

Metro Cafe

The place for fresh pasta and one of Beijing's best Italian restaurants. Choose a pasta from column

A on the menu and a sauce from column B. Try the spinach ravioli but start with an appetizer

(they're all good) and leave room for the marble cheesecake. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 10 pm).

$$. Most major credit cards. 6 W. Workers' Stadium Road (Gongti Xilu), Chaoyang District, Beijing.

Phone 6552-7828.

Latin American

Alameda

This elegant restaurant in the heart of Sanlitun frequently pops up in the Best Restaurant category

in local listings magazines. It's easy to be won over by its unpretentious contemporary Brazilian

cuisine, friendly service and cheerful, well-designed interior. The lunch menu is the best value in

town. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 10:30 pm). Reservations recommended. $$. Sanlitun Beijie

(beside the Nali Mall), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6417-8084.

Middle Eastern

1,001 Nights (Yi Qian Ling Yi Ye)

Beijing's best Middle Eastern restaurant serves excellent versions of all the standards: tabbouleh,

pita bread and lamb kebabs. You can even rent a hookah to smoke tobacco while you watch the

belly dancer. Daily for lunch, dinner and late-night (till 2 am). Sanlitun Gongti Beilu (across from

the Zhaolong Hotel), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6532-4050.

Spanish

Ashandi Spanish Restaurant

This upscale restaurant features Spanish paella and sangria. It's a nice place for a romantic dinner

and an ideal place to check out Beijing's art scene—the walls of the restaurant are lined with

paintings by contemporary Chinese artists. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. 168

Xinzhong Jie (opposite Workers' Stadium), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6416-6231.

Mare

Pricier than Ashanti, but known for its tapas and upscale Spanish Embassy crowd. Daily for lunch

and dinner. 14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6417-1459.

Vegetarian

Lotus in Moonlight

Great mock-meat dishes made from tofu and gluten products. Try the spicy "lamb" kebabs and

spicy "chicken." Daily for lunch and dinner. 12 Liufang Nanli, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 139-

0132-3056.

Pure Lotus Vegetarian

Fascinating restaurant run by Buddhist monks where all the dishes are veggie, even the ones that

resemble meat. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Zhongguo Wenlianyuan, 10 Nongzhanguan Nanlu,

Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6592-3627.

Breakfast and Brunch

The Den (Dun Huang)

A rowdy nightlife spot after dark, The Den does a consistently good and civilized champagne brunch

for about 80 yuan. Its convenient location next to the City Hotel and near the Sanlitun area makes

it an ideal meeting spot. Open 24 hours on weekends; till 7 pm weekdays. $. 4 Gongti Donglu,

Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6592-6290.

Grandma's Kitchen

Founded by a bona fide grandmother from Texas, this is the capital's best American home cooking.

Service could be better, but the young waitstaff tries hard. Stick with the classics: pancakes,

waffles, omelettes and skillets. Two locations. Daily 7:30 am-10 pm. $. 11A Xiushui Nanjie (behind

the Friendship Store), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6503-2893.

Peter's Tex-Mex Grill

Founder Peter is the adopted son of Grandma from Grandma's Kitchen, and she certainly taught him

everything he knows about cooking. The omelettes and burritos there do the Lone Star State proud.

Daily 7:30 am-11 pm. $. 88A International Club, 21 Jianguomenwai Da Jie (next to the St. Regis

Hotel), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8532-2449.

Other Options

Green T. House

Funky fusion food or pretentious schlock? You be the judge. The minimalist-inspired place serves

"conceptual cuisine" amidst obtrusive chairs and artsy paraphernalia. A good taste of contemporary

Beijing cultural kitsch. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. No. 6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang

District, Beijing. Phone 6552-8311.

Jing

Another minimalist-inspired contemporary venue that appeals to yuppies of all stripes. There's an

open-plan kitchen reminiscent of bistros in the U.S. Daily for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.

Peninsula Palace Hotel, 8 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6559-2888,

ext. 6714.

Traktirr

Good, authentic home-style Russian restaurant right next to the Russian Embassy off of

Dongzhimennei. A great place to eat hearty Western food (including black caviar) on the cheap.

Daily for lunch and dinner. $. No credit cards. 1A Xiyangguan Hutong, Beizhong Jie, Dongzhimennei

Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6403-1896.

ENTERTAINMENT

Nightlife

The easing of government policies and an increase in the number of foreigners living in Beijing have

given rise to several thriving entertainment spots. Clubs and bars of every stripe line Sanlitun Bar

Street in Chaoyang District, but the area around Houhai Lake (north of the Forbidden City) is vying

for Sanlitun's crown as Beijing's premier nightlife district with dozens of popular bars.

Karaoke bars are the nighttime activity for many Chinese. You'll find one in every hotel, as well as

on every corner in the tourist areas. (They're recognizable by the letters OK or KTV in their names.)

Be warned: Some karaoke bars charge outrageous prices and have been known to rough up

customers who refuse to pay their expensive bills; others are fronts for brothels. If you want to try

a karaoke bar, go to one in a hotel. It will be expensive, but at least you'll know what you're getting

into.

Beijing's clubgoers are a fickle bunch, and venues quickly fall in and out of favor. Also, the turnover

rate is extremely high, as many venues in the older hutong areas are demolished and forced to

reopen elsewhere. The capital has also seen the arrival of the super-club—giant dance venues that

attract international DJs such as Carl Cox and Paul van Dyk. The current hot spots for dancing are

Cargo, Coco Banana and Babyface, which are all located along the side of the Workers' Stadium,

and other favorites include Vics and Mix.

You can enjoy a traditional form of entertainment at the Lao She Teahouse (Lao She Cha Guan),

where you sit among photos of Henry Kissinger and other world leaders who have stopped in for

green tea and a show.

The hours at Beijing nightspots vary. Bars and live-music venues in the Sanlitun and Houhai areas

generally close around 2 am. Most clubs and discos stay open all night, depending on their

popularity.

Bars, Taverns and Pubs

Bed Tapas & Bar

Minimalist meets antique kitsch in this hip spot nestled in the hutongs (alleys) behind Gulou (the

Drum Tower). Serves a selection of tapas and mixed drinks amidst loungelike surroundings. Daily 4

pm-1 am. 17 Zhangwang Hutong (off of Jiu Gulou jie), Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 8400-1554.

Cafe Sambal

Owned by the same gentleman who owns Bed, this small courtyard bar is fantastic in the summer,

although it's a treat any time of year. It serves nouvelle Malaysian cuisine for the hungry—the

thirsty should try a bucket of the house mojitos. Daily from noon until the last customer leaves. 43

Doufu You Hutong, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6400-4875.

Centro

The hotel bar that transcends hotel bars—Centro, in the lobby of the Kerry Center Hotel—is

enormously popular in town among the martini-and-cigar set. Daily 24 hours. Kerry Center Hotel, 1

Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6561-8833, ext. 42.

Cloud Nine Bar

Now an upscale bar located in the Shangri-La Hotel, this bar is popular with movers and shakers as

well as cocktail fans. Daily 8 am-2 am. Shangri-La Hotel Beijing, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu (north of

Poachers in the white building), Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6841-2211, ext. 2723.

No Name Bar

The bar that sparked the burgeoning Houhai nightlife scene is still arguably the best in the area. It

attracts locals, expatriates and tourists who go to enjoy its prime lakeside location, soft lighting and

elegant interior. Daily from noon. 3 Qianhai Dong Yan, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6401-8541.

Pass By Bar

Perfect for the granola-and-backpacker set—this place is all about Tibetan decor, travel books and

backpacker bulletin boards. Decent pasta, reasonably priced beer and a diverse, down-to-earth

crowd. Daily from 9:30 am. 108 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8403-8004.

Poachers Inn

Attached to a popular youth hostel, Poachers attracts a steady crowd of itinerant, hormonally driven

youngsters and out-of-towners. Enjoy the cheap beer and peppy hip-hop music blasting from the

speakers. Daily from 8 pm. Usually has a cover charge on weekends. 43 Bei Sanlitun Lu (next to the

Poacher's Youth Hostel west of the Sanlitun Bar Street), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6417-

2632, ext. 8506.

Dance Clubs and Nightclubs

Babyface

Originally a Guangzhou concept, Babyface has been transplanted all over China. Big, well-designed

club with top-class DJs and a smooth, professional feel. There is a second Beijing location at

Triumph Plaza (A143 Xizhimenwai Dajie, Xicheng District, phone 8801-6848). 6 Gongti Xilu,

Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6551-9081.

Bar Blu

Combines an intimate bar over two rooms with a steaming dance floor, DJs every night, and a

fabulous terrace for those warm Beijing summer nights. Sunday-Thursday 4 pm-2 am, Friday and

Saturday 4 pm-4 am. 4/F Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6558-

4616.

Browns

A bar by day and a nightclub by night drawing a diffuse crowd of expatriates and wealthy Chinese.

Drinks are not cheap, but Browns wins on atmosphere. Daily 11 am-4 am. Nansanlitun Lu,

Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6591-2717.

Inner Affairs

A giant Buddha head overlooks the cozy dance floor, where the music tends toward house.

Surrounding it are lush sofas and a balcony beset with the idle rich. Lots of champagne, Chivas and

green tea. Daily from 6:30 pm. 6 Xiliujie, Sanlitun Beili, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8454-

0899.

Latinos

Salsa the night away at Beijing's most popular Latin dance club. It has been relocated, like so many

Beijing clubs, but is still drawing a mixed crowd of white-collar locals and expats of all extractions to

its new venue. Tuesday-Sunday from 8 pm. A12 Nan Xin Cang Historical Complex, Dong Si Shi Tiao

22, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6409-6997.

Mix

Freshly renovated, this perennially packed, smoke-filled club features booty-shaking, sweat-makin'

hip-hop. The younger set loves it. Daily from 8 pm. North gate of Workers' Stadium, Beijing. Phone

6530-2889.

Tango

Obnoxiously large club at the south gate of Ditan Park operated by the same people behind Cloud

Nine. Smoke-and-mirrors dance floor downstairs and large live-music venue upstairs. Daily 24

hours. South Gate of Ditan Park (next to Jindingxuan restaurant), Dongcheng District, Beijing.

Phone 6428-2288.

Vics

The arch-nemesis of Mix sits right across from it in the Workers' Stadium parking lot. Plays a blend

of booty-shaking hip-hop and R&B to a consistent crowd of youngsters, students and

twentysomethings. Nightly 8:30 until late. North gate of Workers' Stadium, Chaoyang District,

Beijing. Phone 6593-6215.

World of Suzie Wong (Su Si Huang)

The quintessential Beijing meat market, where hormonally charged yuppies of all backgrounds

mingle amidst faux-antique furniture, loud music and Long Island iced teas. Daily from 7 pm.

Chaoyang Park West Gate, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6500-3377.

Live Music

Nameless Highland

The Asian Games Village hasn't been the same since this venue opened, featuring a bombastic

blend of live music acts that run the gamut of genres, taste and talent. Daily from 8 pm. Building

14, Anhuili Area 1, Yayuncun (655 ft/200 m north of the Yayuncun Hospital intersection), Chaoyang

District, Beijing. Phone 6489-1613.

New Get Lucky

The Chaoyang location of this Beijing institution still has the same lineup of live music: Death metal,

hip-hop, indie rock and beyond. It still brews its own beer as well. Daily 11 am-2 am. A1 Xingba Lu,

Nuren Jie, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8448-3335.

Other Options

Lao She Teahouse (Lao She Cha Guan)

Traditional Chinese comedy (xiangsheng) and songs may not appeal to those who don't speak the

language, but many world leaders and dignitaries have visited this teahouse and have had their

picture taken with the grinning manager. Shows nightly at 7:50 and 9:20. 40 yuan-130 yuan,

including a bottomless cup of tea and snacks. 3 Qianmen Xidajie, Chongwen District, Beijing. Phone

6303-6830.

Lotus Lane

Situated in the hip and happening Houhai area, Lotus Lane is a strip of bars beside the lake—it has

a seedy side, but is fun to hang around. The prices in the strip of bars there can vary wildly and can

be expensive. Daily from 6 pm. 51 Di'anmen Dajie (Shichahai, Qianhai Xiyan), Dongcheng District,

Beijing. Phone 6593-6215.

Tianqiao Teahouse (Tianqiao Cha Guan)

Features a variety of Beijing-style cabaret acts, such as singing, magic, fire-eating and a comic

dialogue called cross talking. Shows Tuesday-Sunday 7-9 pm. 180 yuan for table and snacks, 330

yuan for table and duck dinner. 113 Tianqiao Market, Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 6304-0617.

Performing Arts

Beijing's arts offerings are impressive—and can be seen year-round. Many artists have begun

traveling overseas, lending an increasingly cosmopolitan sophistication to the performing arts. The

Beijing Oriental Song and Dance Ensemble is a particularly noteworthy offering, as is Beijing opera.

A subset of Chinese opera, Beijing opera is unlike, for example, Madame Butterfly: It's a

combination of song, dance, acrobatics and other crowd-pleasing stunts. The music is less important

than the visual impact. In fact, most people chat (sometimes loudly) throughout the performance.

Dance

Beijing Modern Art Dance Company

Formed in 1995 by Jing Xin, a former PLA officer, the troupe organizes annual modern dance

festivals and allows visitors to watch their daily rehearsals. 20 yuan. 8 Majiapu Dongli, Fengtai

District, Beijing. Phone 6757-3879.

Beijing Oriental Song and Dance Ensemble (Beijing Dongfang Gewu Tuan)

Performances are usually at the Theater of the Beijing Exhibition Hall. Ticket prices vary. 135 Xiwai

St., Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6831-6677.

Central Ballet of China

This company performs at the International Theater of Poly Plaza. Dongsi Shitiao Overpass,

Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6506-5345.

Central Song and Dance Ensemble (Zhong Yang Gewu Tuan)

Performances are at the Theater of the Beijing Exhibition Hall or the Nationalities Theater. Tickets

run 60 yuan-180 yuan. Xicheng District. Phone 6403-3439.

Music

Beijing Symphony Orchestra

This orchestra performs—frequently with guest artists—at the Beijing Concert Hall. Ticket prices

vary. Phone 6605-5812 (Beijing Concert Hall).

China National Symphony Orchestra

China's best symphony orchestra, which performs at the Beijing Concert Hall, frequently features

guest artists. Tickets 30 yuan-120 yuan. Phone 6605-5812.

Opera

Liyuan Theater

Beijing opera for foreigners: English subtitles are displayed on screens that flank the stage. After

the hour-long performance, children are welcome backstage to meet the costumed characters.

Shows nightly at 7:30. Tickets cost 30 yuan-150 yuan. 175 Yongan Road (in the Qianmen Hotel),

Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 6301-6688, ext. 8860, or 8315-7297.

Ticket Brokers

Tickets are purchased directly from each theater. At many hotels, the concierge or front-desk staff

can assist you in obtaining tickets. Avoid buying tickets sold by scalpers outside the theaters,

because they may not be tickets for that day's performance.

Other Options

China National Acrobatic Circus

This prize-winning troupe performs a colorful acrobatic show, China Soul. Based on the 3,000-year-

old history of Chinese acrobatics, the show combines acrobatic stunts with martial arts, dance and

opera. Nightly at 7:25. Universe Theater, 10 Dongzhimen Nandajie (just north of Poly Theater),

Beijing. Phone 6502-3984 or 6416-89893 (ticket office).

The Legend of Kung Fu

Nightly performances of kung fu fighting in a modern theatrical setting. Nightly at 7:30. Tickets

range from 90 yuan (children) to 680 yuan (VIP). 44 Xingfu Dajie, Chongwen District, Beijing.

Phone 6714-2473.

Spectator Sports

Beijingers (and the Chinese in general) are crazy about soccer. Games are held in the spring and

summer at the Workers' Stadium and Xian Nong Tan Stadium. The Chinese Basketball League

showcases the best basketball talents in the country and some foreign players, as well. Beijing's

team, the Bayi Rockets, plays regularly. For sports fans, That's Beijing is the best source of

information about soccer games, basketball, rugby matches and other spectator sports.

SHOPPING

You will find most of China's products in Beijing: Carpets, silk, cloisonne and lacquered items, jade

carvings, pearls and embroidery. The best, however, may be available only in Hong Kong or may be

exported. Still, most shoppers will find plenty to buy.

Though shopping in Beijing can be rewarding, it can also be extremely frustrating. There's a wealth

of items to buy, but finding them (especially at the right price) can be difficult. The pearl markets,

for instance, offer beautiful jewelry, though you may be able to find similar-quality pearls at better

prices elsewhere in China. Some great deals on such common items as clothing can be found at

Beijing's open markets. So a "bargain" may depend on where you're going in China and how much

travel time you want to spend shopping. Designer clothing and other goods can be found in many

shops and markets. Beware, however—many counterfeit designer brands are sold, as well.

Bargain vigorously when dealing with small and independent shops—it's expected. Haggling is

typically done by calculator; the buyer and seller punch in offers and counter offers until a price is

agreed upon, although now many vendors in the Silk Alley and Yaxiu Market speak excellent

English. The general rule is to cut the initial asking price in half, and start bargaining from there. Be

firm and walk away if they don't agree. Most likely you'll be called back and sold the item. The best

rule is: If you really want something, buy it. This is especially true when it comes to local arts and

crafts.

Remember that cash is king. A shop's acceptance of international credit cards (such as American

Express or Visa) is meant to attract foreign shoppers, but prices may include credit-card service

fees.

Shopping Hours: Stores generally open around 8 am and close around 6 pm, with larger

department stores opening around 9 or 9:30 am and staying open as late as 10 pm. Open-air

markets start at about 9 am and close at dark.

Antique Stores

Be especially careful when buying antiques. There are excellent copies available—so good that they

pass for the real thing. This is great, except that fakes are usually sold at the same high prices as

the genuine articles. True antiques will be authenticated by the shop selling them, thanks to China's

stringent antiquities-protection laws. These laws also provide that items beyond a certain age—

usually those made before the reign of the Emperor Qianlong (1736-95)—cannot be taken out of

the country and will be confiscated at customs.

Beijing Curio City (Beijing Guwan Cheng)

This four-story gift shop sells trinkets, jewelry, clocks, rugs, shard boxes (boxes topped with pieces

of old porcelain), teapots, statues and furniture. Daily 9:30 am-6:30 pm. 21 Dong San Huan Nan

Lu, Chongwen District, Beijing. Phone 6774-7711.

Gangchen Carpets

Specializes in hand-woven Tibetan wool carpets. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Shop 10 Kempinski Hotel,

Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6465-3388, ext. 5542.

Liu Li Chang Cultural Street

A good place to buy antiques, but make sure they are authenticated. One of the landmarks on the

street is Rong Bao Zhai, which sells both the implements of Chinese art (brushes, ink stones, water

dishes) and the items created using them (paintings, calligraphy). You'll also find everything from

furniture to Mao memorabilia to dragon kites. None of what they sell is cheap, but it's likely to be

more authentic than what's sold at other stores on this street. Shops are generally open daily until

6:30 or 7 pm, but hours vary. Walk south about 1,500 ft/450 m from the Hepingmen subway

station, Beijing.

Panjiayuan Antiques Market (Panjiayuan Jiu Huo Shichang)

For perhaps the most interesting antiques-shopping experience in Beijing, visit this open-air

weekend market. You'll find everything from Tibetan rugs to old phonographs. There also are aisles

of old books, Cultural Revolution paraphernalia, scroll paintings and porcelain. It's a must-visit on

any shopping itinerary, and you'll need at least a half-day to see everything. Saturday and Sunday

from dawn until 3 pm. (The earlier you get there, the better.) South of the Panjiayuan bridge (in

southeast Beijing), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6775-2405.

Bookstores

Beijing Bookworm

Since moving from its original location, Beijing Bookworm has become the coolest bookstore/cafe in

Beijing. In addition to loaning out thousands of books for a membership fee, the Bookworm also

sells new and lightly used English-language books, especially those from Beijing-based authors. It

also offers free wireless Internet connections for those with laptops, along with a full bar and decent

food, although portions are, shall we say, nouvelle. Daily 9 am-1 am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Lu,

Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6586-9507. http://www.beijingbookworm.com.

Chaterhouse Booktrader

This is the first Beijing branch of the Hong Kong book shop, and it has an excellent range of titles.

Also offers a lot of foreign magazines. B107, The Place, Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing.

Phone 6587-1329. http://www.chaterhouse.com.cn.

Foreign Languages Bookstore

This Wangfujing institution is still the largest source of English books and magazines in Beijing.

Daily 9 am-9 pm. 235 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6512-6904.

San Wei Bookstore

This small bookstore stocks mostly art books and fiction, both new and classics, many of them in

Chinese. On the weekends, you can hear live jazz or traditional Chinese music in the teahouse

upstairs. Daily 11 am-10 pm. Cover charge 30 yuan. 6 Fuxingmennei Dajie, Xicheng District,

Beijing. Phone 6601-3204.

Xidan Bookstore

This is Beijing's largest bookstore. It features four floors of books, almost entirely Chinese, and

those in English are usually for students learning the language. However, it's worth seeing what's

available, and if nothing else, how voracious local appetites for books and learning can be. It's

conveniently located right next to the entrance to the Xidan subway station. Daily 9 am-7 pm. 20

Xichanganjie, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6607-8477.

Department Stores

Friendship Store (Youyi Shangdian)

It's a one-stop shop for Chinese products. Everyone should go there just to see the selection of

silks, porcelain, cloisonne, embroidery, antique reproductions and jewelry. Prices—which are non-

negotiable—have become more reasonable with the advent of local competition, but they're still not

as good as those found in markets and smaller stores. Daily 9:30 am-8:30 pm. 17 Jianguomenwai

Dajie, Beijing. Phone 6500-3311.

Oriental Plaza (Dongfang Guangchang)

This controversial site opened after knocking down the world's largest McDonald's and plowing over

a Neolithic site found during the digging of the foundation. This is the Beijing mall, with luxury and

foreign brands side by side with local favorites. Stretched across Chang'an Avenue from Wangfujing

to Dongdan, it dominates this part of eastern Beijing. If you want to take a look at upwardly mobile

Beijing and where they shop, this is it. Oriental Plaza's cinema is also the best in Beijing, and shows

original-language English movies, in case you get caught on a rare Beijing rainy day. Daily 9 am-8

pm (individual shop hours vary). 1 E. Chang'an Jie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8518-6363.

Galleries

Beijing Tokyo Art Project

One of the signature galleries at the 798 art space, a series of converted factories in Dashanzi in

northeast Chaoyang District that serve as Beijing's new arts district. Features contemporary works

by Chinese and Japanese artists. Check out the surrounding spaces while you're at it. Tuesday-

Sunday 10 am-6:30 pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu (Dashanzi Art District), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone

8457-3245. http://www.tokyo-gallery.com.

China Art Archives and Warehouse

Another great place to check out contemporary Chinese art in an impressively large setting, favored

by overseas collectors and dealers. Call for an appointment. Caochangdi Cun, Jichang Fulu (opposite

the Nangao Police Station), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8456-5152.

http://www.archivesandwarehouse.com.

The Courtyard Gallery (Siheyuan)

Displays works by contemporary Chinese artists in all media. It also has a world-class restaurant

with amazing fusion cuisine. Monday-Saturday 11 am-7 pm, Sunday noon-7 pm. 95 Donghuamen

Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6526-8882. http://www.courtyard-gallery.com.

Red Gate Gallery

Occupying the Dongbianmen Watchtower, this gallery displays contemporary works by many of the

country's top young artists. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. Dongbianmen Watchtower, Chongwen

District, Beijing. Phone 6525-1005. http://www.redgategallery.com.

Wan Fung Art Gallery

Housed in what was formerly the Imperial Archives, this gallery exhibits traditional paintings and

sculptures by Chinese artists. Visitors should ask for Kathy Dai, who is knowledgeable about the

artists and their works. The entire staff speaks English. Monday noon-6 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 10

am-6 pm. 136 Nanchizi Dajie (east of the Forbidden City), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6523-

3320, ext. 19. http://www.wanfung.com.cn.

Markets

Hong Qiao

Also known as the Pearl Market, this market has it all—antiques, produce, seafood, clothing,

porcelain, electronics and, of course, pearls. The cloisonne on the third floor is a good buy. The top

floor is the place for Cultural Revolution items and other interesting knickknacks. It's not actually an

open market: It's in a long row of metal shelters. Beware the strong fish smell coming from the

seafood market in the basement. Generally open daily 9 am until sunset. 16 Hongqiao Lu (near the

Temple of Heaven), Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 6711-7429.

Shopping Areas

China World Shopping Mall (Guo Mao)

This ultramodern mall boasts high-end clothing boutiques (Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton), a food court

in the basement and an ice-skating rink. Daily 10 am-9:30 pm. 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang

District, Beijing. Phone 6505-6688.

Silk Alley (Xiushui Jie)

Formerly a makeshift market around the corner from the U.S. Embassy, Silk Alley has been

replaced on the same site by a huge, rather charmless mall where you can buy knockoff authentic

clothes, shoes and accessories at very inexpensive prices. Daily 9 am-dusk. Xiushui Dongjie (off

Jianguomenwai Dajie), Beijing.

Tea Street

Tea Street has a handful of shops specializing in teas from all over China (ranging from a few yuan

per pound to thousands of yuan for a can). There are also teapots and tea sets for sale. Daily 8 am-

6 pm. Maliandao Chayecheng, Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 6328-1177.

Wangfujing Street/Xi Dan Street/Dong Si Street

Running north from the main street of Changan Dajie, just east of the Forbidden City, are

Wangfujing, Xi Dan and Dong Si streets (Wangfujing is a pedestrian-only zone). These three streets

contain the department stores, clothing shops, toy stores, drugstores and other stores where locals

shop. Because of the incredible crowds, avoid going on a Sunday unless your aim is people-

watching, not shopping.

Xin Dong An Plaza

Beijing's first megamall opened in 1998, but don't look for upscale merchandise there. Shops sell

arts and crafts, musical instruments and CDs. Wangfujing Street (at Goldfish Lane, west of the

Palace Hotel), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6528-6611.

Yaxiu Market

Similar to the famed Silk Alley, where you can buy knockoffs and name brands under the same roof

for cheap. Daily 9:30 am-9 pm. Gongti Bei Lu, Sanlitun 58, Beijing. Phone 6415-1726.

Specialty Stores

Beijing Silk Store

Dating from 1840, this historical shop—located in an old-style European building—is still one of the

best places in town to buy silk wear and bolts of silk. Daily 8:30 am-7:30 pm. Qianmen Zhubaoshi

Jie, Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 6301-6658.

Jianhua Leather and Fur Store

The Russian-style fur hats are popular among non-Chinese residents and tourists from colder

regions of China. Daily 9 am-9 pm. 192 Wangfujing St., Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6525-

0801.

Jingdezhen Porcelain Shop

This shop sells porcelain from the famous, centuries-old factory in Jingdezhen (an area in southern

China). Daily 9 am-8 pm. 149 Qianmen St., Chongwen District, Beijing. Phone 6303-4452.

Pakistan Goods Store

Get a taste of the silk road at this store that sells goods and crafts from Pakistan and Central Asia.

Daily noon-midnight. Sanlitun Bei Jie, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6417-6355.

Theatrical Prop and Costume Shop

This shop in the historical Qianmen area offers Beijing opera supplies. Even if you're not going to

buy, stop in to look. Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm. 32 Xichaoshijie, Chongwen District, Beijing.

Phone 6702-2853.

Things of the Jing

Jewelry designer Gabrielle Harris makes ornate silver pieces with a Beijing theme. Great for

souvenirs and gifts. Daily 11 am-9 pm. 221 Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing.

Phone 390-110-2781. http://thingsofthejing.com/index.html.

White Peacock Art World (Bai Kongque Yishu Shijie)

Visible from the Second Ring Road, this huge arts-and-crafts shop is touristy but convenient. The

staff will help you ship goods overseas. Daily 9 am-7:30 pm. Deshengmenwai Dongbeibinhelu,

Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6201-1199.

Yuan Long Embroidery and Silk Company

Mostly silk but also carpets and porcelain, old and new. Daily 9 am-6:30 pm. 55 Tiantan Lu,

Chongwen District, Beijing. Phone 6701-2854.

SECURITY

Personal Safety

Violent crime is not a problem in Beijing (and what violence does occur is rarely directed at visitors),

but you still should be careful at night. Petty theft is common. Keep your passport and money in a

safe place on your person or in a safe at your hotel. Although traveler's checks offer a degree of

safety, they're seldom accepted outside hotels and banks and may present more inconvenience

than protection. If you rent or borrow a bicycle, leave it at one of the hundreds of guarded bike lots

around the city. (Be sure to lock it—the guards don't give receipts to identify which bike belongs to

whom, so anyone can ride off with an unlocked bike.) The cost is usually 0.30 yuan (about

US$0.04), paid to the attendant when you pick up your bike.

China's urban renewal efforts, including the demolition of older housing units, have led to tensions

and sporadic civil unrest in Beijing. Visitors may want to avoid demonstrations and protests,

especially those that appear political in nature.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

No vaccines are required to enter China, but travelers venturing into rural areas beyond Beijing may

want to consider getting vaccinations for hepatitis.

After the outbreak (in late 2002) and rapid spread of Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS) in

China, arriving visitors are now required to fill out a health declaration stating that they are free of

symptoms of SARS (high fever, headache, body aches, respiratory distress) and must have their

temperatures checked by infrared scanner.

Don't drink the tap water. Drink only boiled or bottled water. Avoid uncooked vegetables and fruits

you haven't peeled yourself. Chinese cooking emphasizes high temperatures and fresh ingredients,

but meat is often left unrefrigerated for long periods. When eating street food, choose items such as

fried noodles and fried rice.

Smog, especially during summer, can cause problems for asthma and allergy sufferers. People with

respiratory ailments should take along ample supplies of medicines for the duration of their trip.

Winters are extremely dry. Drink plenty of water to ensure proper hydration.

People requiring contraceptives should take an adequate supply with them. Domestically produced

condoms are considered unreliable.

Visitors can obtain information about English-speaking medical providers from the American

Citizens' Services section of the U.S. Embassy. Monday-Friday 9 am-noon and 2-4 pm. Phone 6532-

3831.

People planning long stays or traveling beyond Beijing may wish to consider joining a medical-

evacuation plan. SOS Assistance offers reliable service in Beijing and also operates a clinic in the

Sanlitun area. Contact them directly for short-term coverage plans and rates. Phone 6462-9112 or

6500-3388, ext. 433. 24-hour emergency number: 6462-9100.

For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Disabled Advisory

Beijing is challenging for travelers with physical limitations. The streets are in poor repair, and few

sidewalks have curb cuts for wheelchair access. Traffic lights are short, and only a few have beepers

to alert the visually impaired. Tourist sites can be hard to reach, too—ancient Chinese structures

tend to have lots of stairs, and there's little accommodation for handicapped visitors.

Etiquette

China continues to evolve in ways that are bringing it in closer contact with other parts of the world.

Nonetheless, the country remains a place where business travelers need to tread carefully.

Appointments—If you are going to China on business, you will need to establish local contacts

before departing. Begin by contacting the department of your government that deals with

international business (the U.S. Department of Commerce, for instance). They can put you in touch

with business and government personnel in China. Once in the country, remember that punctuality

on the part of all parties is important for both business and social occasions. If you are late, it

reflects badly on you and can be perceived as a slight that can put the entire business relationship

into question.

Personal Introductions—Handshaking is the norm. Maintain a formal demeanor during

introductions. Official titles are important. When the person has no official title, use standard English

titles unless you are fluent in Mandarin: "Mr.", "Ms." (unmarried female) and "Madam" (married

female—the title should accompany her maiden name). The Chinese typically have two or three

names: The first is the family name, and that's the one that should be paired with the title.

(Therefore, "Wang Jianguo" is "Mr. Wang.") Your business cards should have English on one side

and a Chinese translation on the other. Treat the business cards you receive with respect and leave

them on the table in front of you for reference during the meeting. At the end of a meeting, place

the cards in a wallet or holder in your jacket pocket, handbag or briefcase, not in a wallet that you

put in a pants pocket.

Negotiating—Business meetings begin with a short interval of polite conversation, usually over tea

or drinks. Hard-driving, get-to-the-point tactics usually backfire. Negotiations will typically be

protracted and involved. Multiple meetings on the same issues are not unusual. Expect the

unexpected, and do not be thrown by last-minute complexities or demands. If you have a deadline,

do not reveal it. The host may signal the end of a meeting by offering more tea. The correct

response is to decline the offer and say that you are ready to leave. If the host thanks you for

coming, that also is a sign the meeting is over.

Business Entertaining—Evening banquets are often extravagant affairs with many courses and

exotic foods. Expect several toasts throughout the evening, often with Chinese liquor (baijiu). If you

do not drink or don't enjoy its taste, politely decline by toasting with your tea or another drink.

Business is usually not discussed at large banquets. At other business meals, it is appropriate to

discuss business if your host initiates the discussion.

Body Language—Observe a formal body posture. Refrain from touching and keep gestures to a

minimum. Do not talk with your hands in your pockets or use a finger to point at people—these

gestures are considered rude. Use your open hand to point, but do so sparingly.

Conversation—Avoid politics, especially such sensitive issues as Taiwan, Tibet, the Communist

Party or the student demonstrations in Tiananmen Square in 1989. Regardless of your

acquaintances' feelings, they will most likely not be comfortable discussing such topics with you and

certainly not in public. History, family and Chinese culture are good topics. Be careful if you

compliment someone's possessions. An article of clothing or a home decoration you praise may be

offered to you—don't accept.

Dos and Don'ts

Don't complain about the pollution or the traffic; it won't make the skies less smoggy or the streets

less congested.

Don't take offense at the number of people who spit on the street. Many Chinese believe "better out

than in" when it comes to phlegm, though there are efforts to stop people from hawking so much.

Do sample the local Yanjing beer; it's excellent, especially with jiaozi dumplings, a plain but

fantastic meal.

Do spend some time in the park. If you get there early enough, you can watch the pensioners doing

their tai chi exercises and experience a great sense of calm.

Do visit the Danshanzi art district, also called 798. Chinese contemporary art is red hot at the

moment, and a lot of it is made right there.

PRACTICALITIES

Geostats

Alternate Name: Peking (traditional, archaic).

Passport/Visa Requirements: Passport, visa and proof of onward passage are needed by

Canadian and U.S. citizens. There is an airport departure tax (called a "construction tax") of 50

yuan for domestic flights and 90 yuan for international flights (including flights to Hong Kong) added

to fares. Do not pay a departure tax at your hotel or the airport. Reconfirm travel document

requirements with your carrier before departure.

Metropolitan Population: 10,717,000.

Languages: Mandarin, also known as Putonghua. Beyond the major hotels you'll find few people,

including taxi drivers, who speak English well. It's wise to have your destination written in Chinese.

If you're leaving from a hotel, often the hotel staff can tell your driver your destination in Chinese.

Predominant Religions: Officially atheist, but Muslims, Buddhists, Taoists, Lamaists and

Christians practice.

Time Zone: 8 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+8 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not

observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts, 50 cycles. There is no standard electrical outlet, although the

outlet for three-prong plugs is the most common in hotels. Hotels usually have prong adapters but

no voltage transformers, except for the ones built into the outlets for electric shavers and hair

dryers.

Telephone Codes: 86, country code; 10, city code.

Money

Currency Exchange

The local currency is the renminbi (RMB for short), also known as the yuan. The RMB is no longer

tied to the value of the American dollar and its value fluctuates slightly.

Exchange rates in China are set by the Bank of China and do not vary by location (the exchange

rate at a hotel will be the same as at a bank). Most exchange outlets will give a slightly better rate

for traveler's checks or credit cards than for cash.

Save any currency-exchange receipts you receive while in China. You'll need them to convert yuan

back into other hard currencies upon your departure—which can now be done only at the airport.

Without receipts, you have no proof that the yuan you are carrying were not illegally earned in

China, and the bank will not change them back. To minimize leftover yuan upon departure,

travelers may wish to change money frequently during their stay rather than to do so in one lump

sum at the beginning.

Although Beijing has a proliferation of ATMs, it's best not to rely on them, because they are not

always connected to international banking networks, and on weekends they are often not refilled.

Many, however, are now able to calculate the current exchange rate and dispense money from U.S.

accounts in local currency. (Machines that accept foreign ATM cards bear the CIRRUS or MAESTRO

logos.) It is still best to have plenty of cash on hand.

Currency Exchange Rates

US Dollar Chinese renminbi

$10 78.99

$20 157.98

$30 236.97

$40 315.96

$50 394.94

$60 473.93

$70 552.92

$80 631.91

$90 710.90

$100 789.89

Taxes

There is a sales tax and a value-added tax (VAT), but both are included in the price of goods.

Tipping

Hotel porters now expect 10 yuan for carrying your bags to a hotel room or taxi. However, tipping

elsewhere is not expected and may even be construed as offensive. Some restaurants add a 15%

service charge, which is sufficient to cover any gratuity. Do not tip beyond that.

Weather

Beijing is renowned for its pleasant springs (65-75 F/18-24 C) and brisk falls (50s F/10-15 C).

Summers are hot, with temperatures ranging 85-95 F/30-35 C. Winters can be extremely cold and

dry, especially when Siberian winds blow in from the north. Expect frequent temperatures below

freezing. Beijing's rainy season is in June and July. Be prepared for dust—and dust storms—at

almost any time, but especially in spring.

What to Wear

Except in business settings, dress is casual in Beijing and is becoming more so every year. It's

perfectly acceptable for women to wear shorts in the summer. Although shorts and T-shirts are not

considered improper, few Chinese people wear them. For business, men wear suits and ties and

women wear dresses or suits. Women commonly wear boots in winter, even for business.

Communication

Telephone

Telecommunications in China are generally excellent, and pay phones are widely available on the

streets. A phone card is the most practical way to use them as a visitor. These can be purchased in

many outlets, but it's a good idea to ask your hotel for the best option.

Cell-phone coverage in China is extremely comprehensive, and you can get a signal even in very

remote places. You can buy SIM cards in the airport and in supermarkets and foreign stores, but

don't be afraid to ask questions to make sure you get a good-value card. You must dial 010 for

Beijing when using phone cards and when dialing from a cell phone.

Internet Access

Internet cafes became hugely popular in Beijing during the late 1990s. At one time there were more

than 2,400 such establishments in the city. All that came to an end in 2001 when a fire at one cafe

resulted in the deaths of dozens of users. The government immediately clamped down, and many

cafes were shut down.

In recent years, the number of cafes has started to increase again, and there are now some large

fancy ones in Chaoyang and Haidian districts, particularly near the Buynow computer center in

Chaoyang (Bainao hui in Chinese). Most Starbucks now have wireless access, as do many of the

larger hotels and some individual bars and cafes around town. Your best bet is to check with your

hotel in advance to see if they provide this service. The typical charge is 2 yuan per minute, with a

15-minute minimum.

Many restaurants and bars offer free wireless Internet access. For a list of locations in Beijing, visit

http://www.chinapulse.com/wifi.

Mail and Package Services

The mail service is generally reliable for sending items out of China, although it can sometimes be

difficult to receive items. Most hotels sell stamps and mail letters for their guests.

International Post and Telecommunications Office

The main office of the Chinese postal service offers express domestic and international package

delivery with its EMS service. Rates are comparable to private package-delivery services. Every

branch will accept packages for express shipment. At the main international post office, the customs

desk is open 9-11:30 am and 1-4 pm. All packages must be inspected before shipping, and no

inspection is available outside of those hours. Two other branches are at the Holiday Inn Lido Hotel

and the China World Trade Center. Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm. (The customs desk is open till 5 pm.)

Second Ring Road (on the east side of the road, north of the Jianguomenwai intersection), Beijing.

Phone 6512-8120.

Newspapers and Magazines

Local English-language newspapers include Beijing Weekend, Beijing This Week and the China Daily.

All state-run publications are carried by hotel newsstands, bars and restaurants around town. The

Asian Wall Street Journal is the most commonly read business journal. It can be found at major

hotels and the Friendship Store newsstand.

The South China Morning Post, an English-language paper published in Hong Kong, is available in

the evenings at hotel newsstands. The International Herald Tribune is also available evenings at

hotel newsstands, along with USA Today, the Wall Street Journal and the Sunday edition of The

Times of London.

A handful of other publications cater to travelers and expatriates. Most notable are That's Beijing,

Time Out, City Weekend and Beijing Review, which list restaurants, bars, nightclubs, art galleries,

and musical and cultural performances. These publications are free and can be found in hotels,

stores, bars, nightclubs and cafes around town.

Transportation

Although taxis are the simplest way to get around the city, getting into a taxi in Beijing requires

preparation. Because drivers don't speak English, be sure you get the address or exact location of

your destination written in Chinese and carry a map in English and Chinese that you can point to for

your driver's reference. Simply show the directions to your driver, and there shouldn't be a problem.

Be aware that some drivers act as if they aren't familiar with an area so that they can run up the

meter or avoid taking you to a nearby location. Always make sure the driver uses the meter. Most

cabs charge 1.6 yuan-2 yuan per 0.6 mi/1 kilometer, with a minimum charge of 10 yuan for the

first 1.8 mi/3 km (the price increases to 11 yuan for the first 1.8 mi/3 km after 11 pm). If you must

be on the road during rush hours (7-9 am and 4-7 pm), allow plenty of time to get through traffic.

Gridlock is increasingly common, and traveling across town can take as long as an hour.

Getting around by bicycle is an option. Although the traffic in Beijing is chaotic, many streets have

bicycle lanes, and many of the major sights are within bicycling distance of each other. The city is

incredibly flat, so a cheap, single-speed bicycle is all you need. (Mountain bikes are a favorite of

thieves.) Most hotels rent bicycles for about 30 yuan a day. If yours does not, ask the concierge or

front-desk staff to direct you to a company that does—there are many in the city. You may be

asked to leave a deposit (about 300 yuan) or your passport. Be aware that because bike paths

border roads, it's impossible to avoid exhaust fumes. If you have asthma or are prone to upper-

respiratory infections, bicycling is probably not a good idea.

Because the city is so large and spread out, walking around Beijing requires time and stamina.

Within some areas, walking is a viable option, but be aware that city blocks are quite long.

The bus system is extensive but extremely crowded, and the maps are available only in Chinese.

The subway is speedy, but the range of the system is limited.

Air

The recently remodeled and much improved Beijing International Airport (BJS) is 17 mi/27 km

northeast of the city center. Plans are under way to expand the airport into the world's largest

under the supervision of famous British architect Lord Foster, who also designed Hong Kong's

airport (currently the world's largest). The airport expansion is due to open in late 2007, in time for

the 2008 Olympics.

The current airport has some amenities, including duty-free shopping, a food court, a Starbucks and

a multistory parking garage. There are two main terminals for domestic and international flights,

with connecting shuttle buses. The difference between the two is notable, and the domestic terminal

strikes one more as a bus station with planes. Be aware that domestic flights frequently change

gates, so check and re-check as your boarding time approaches. Plans are under way to construct a

connecting high-speed light rail hub to Dongzhimen in East Beijing by July 2008 that will take only

seven minutes to get to and from the airport. As in Hong Kong, passengers will be able to check

their luggage and go through customs there, instead of at the airport.

Connecting Transportation

Best way:

Arrange for your hotel to pick you up. Generally, the hotels nearer the airport offer courtesy vans,

and those farther away will pick you up for a charge. If you plan on taking the courtesy van, let

your hotel know in advance of your arrival time. It will be more expensive, but you'll be met by

someone who speaks English and knows exactly where you are going.

Other options:

Taxis can be found at stands located outside the main door of the airport. Get in line for a vehicle—

don't go with touts who approach you, because they're more likely to overcharge, and some have

reportedly robbed passengers. The approximate fare to the downtown area is 100 yuan. In addition,

there's a highway fee of 15 yuan that the driver pays. (Drivers can legally request the fee from

passengers at the end of the trip; others ask passengers to pay the fee directly so that there's no

confusion.) Note that drivers will often try to negotiate a price with you without running the meter.

You should insist on running the meter. If you have a complaint about a driver, take note of his

driver number (shown on the placard on the dash) and tell your hotel. It can arrange to help you

voice your complaint.

Car

Visitors to China are permitted to drive, but they usually don't. A Chinese driver's license is required

to get behind the wheel, and the process is so cumbersome that no one (except those staying a

long time) bothers with a rental car. Even residents with licenses shun intercity car travel because

roads and facilities are inadequate (although this situation is also improving), and drivers in Beijing

tend towards oblivious at best, insane at worst. Travelers can hire a car with a driver by the day or

half-day at most major hotels (but not the airport). The cost of a hotel rental car with driver is 200

yuan-700 yuan per day.

Capital Taxi Co.

This company rents cars with drivers from 300 yuan per day. Passengers are no longer expected to

cover the driver's meals, but this should be clarified in advance. Phone 6461-4003.

Public Transportation

Adventurous travelers will find the subway a good, cheap way to get around, but schedules and

information are available only in Mandarin. There are two lines: One wraps around Beijing's center

along the lines of the old city walls; the other goes out to the western suburbs. Entrances to the

subways are square, gray, concrete structures marked with an encircled letter D, which stands for

di xia tie lu (underground railway). Purchase a ticket (3 yuan) at the underground ticket booth

before boarding. The Beijing Tourist Communication Map and the Beijing Touring Map, as well as

others, show the routes of the two lines and their stops. Beijing is currently constructing additional

lines, although many of them won't be completed for a number of years. Check

http://www.urbanrail.net/as/beij/beijing.htm for a map of Beijing's subway lines.

The city bus system, although extensive, is only for the intrepid traveler. Buses are slow and almost

unbearable—a contest to see how many people can cram into a small space. Maps, although

essential to figuring out your route, are only in Chinese. If you use the bus, it's best to do so only

for direct trips when you're sure of the bus route number. Ask hotel staff for assistance.

Taxi

Taxis are plentiful in Beijing. You can hail one easily on the street, at a hotel or at other tourist

spots. Requesting a taxi by phone is possible but usually unnecessary. Taxi drivers generally don't

speak English, so take along the name of your destination written in Chinese and a map in English

and Chinese so you can point to your destination.

Taxis operate 24 hours a day, and passengers may share a cab—the fare is the same, and

passengers split the fare themselves. Taxi fares are set by law, according to the size, age and

condition of the car. Taxis are rated 1.60 and 2.00, the latter being found only in line at top hotels.

Prices are posted on a green sticker on passenger doors. Rates rise at night. Carry small bills—10-

yuan notes are good—because drivers often cannot make change. Tipping is not necessary.

Although we've generally found Beijing taxi drivers to be honest, some travelers are victimized by

age-old cabbie scams—skewing the meter or driving around to increase the fare. Use basic

precautions: Select a taxi from a taxi stand when possible, make sure the driver starts the meter

after you get in and check the meter to see if it starts with the proper amount (10 yuan). If you

have a problem with a driver, wait until you reach your hotel to handle it: Hotel staff will usually

take your side.

Train

Beijing has two main train stations: Beijing Station (Beijing Zhan) and Beijing West Station (Beijing

Xi Zhan). Trains from the northeast and coastal areas (including Shanghai) arrive at Beijing Station,

which is near the center of the city, south of Changanjieis, right above a subway stop. Trains from

the west and south (including the express train from Hong Kong) arrive at Beijing West Station, the

gargantuan station west of Fuxingmen. Take a taxi from this station to the city center. If you do not

speak Mandarin, get someone who does to call for schedule information. You also may need help at

the station because most signs are in Chinese.

For More Information

Tourist Offices

Complaints about bad service from tour companies can be directed to the China National Tourism

Administration (CNTA) and the Beijing Tourism Bureau's 24-hour Tourism Service Quality

Supervision and Control Office hotline at 6513-0828. Its fax number is 6515-8251. English-speaking

operators are available.

Beijing Tourism Administration

This organization provides tourist publications such as Touring in Beijing—but the staff is not

exceptionally helpful, and most of the brochures are in Chinese. You're better off asking your hotel

to arrange tours and travel. Offers a 24-hour Tourism Service Quality Supervision and Control Office

hotline (in concert with Beijing Tourism Bureau). English-speaking operators are available. Monday-

Friday 8:30-11:30 am and 1:30-5 pm. 28 Jianguomenwai Dajie (in the Beijing Tourism Tower),

Beijing. Phone 8516-2288.

China International Travel Service

This is the national, multipurpose tourist board and travel agency. The staff will arrange tours

(expensive) and tickets for plane and bus travel. Daily 8 am-8 pm. 1 Dongdan Bei Dajie (655 ft/200

m east of the Peninsula Plaza Hotel, Wangfu Fandia), Beijing. Phone 8522-7948.

http://www.cits.com.cn.

Additional Reading

Insider's Guide to Beijing by Adam Pillsbury (True Run Media). This is a lively and comprehensive

guide for anyone who plans a longer stay in the city, but it has lots of information for the short-term

visitor, too. Includes advice about living in Beijing from a foreigner's perspective, and compiles work

by 30 writers.

Recommended Guidebooks

Beijing & Shanghai: China's Hottest Cities by Peter Hibbard, Paul Mooney and Steven Schwankert

(Odyssey Publications). Now in its second edition, this beautiful book fills in all the historical nooks

and crannies of travel to Beijing and its rival, Shanghai. Too big to carry around while visiting sites,

but a great work to read before and after a day—or week—of touring.