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Instructions General Finishes Sanding Sealer

Step 1: Preparation

All wood projects require preparation sanding. If you skip this critical step, your finish may fail.

Raw wood

See our video: How To Prep Sand New Wood

1. Sand with 120-grit sandpaper followed by 150- or 220-grit.

2. Remove dust.

New Stained Surface: Do not sand. Apply directly to stained surface.

Existing Finish

See our video: How to Prepare Existing Finishes

1. Scuff clean with a Scotch-Brite™ pad or maroon synthetic steel wool & 50:50 mix of denatured alcohol

& water.

2. Dry 1-2 hours.

3. Sand lightly with 220-320-grit foam sanding sponge.

4. Remove Dust

Step 2: How to Apply General Finishes Sanding Sealer

General Finishes Enduro Sanding Sealer is a clear undercoat that forms an easily sandable foundation

over raw wood or an unsealed stained surface.

Sanding Sealer is not recommended as a final finish because it is not as durable as a topcoat. Seal

Sanding Sealer with any General Finishes water-based topcoat, EXCEPT General Finishes Enduro-

Var, for improved water and chemical resistance.

Enduro Sanding Sealer Application Steps

1. Watch product overview video here.

2. Stir Sanding Sealer to reincorporate solids that have settled to the bottom of the can before and

throughout the application process.

3. Thin as desired with distilled water; start with 5%, adding up to 10% by volume.

4. Increase open time, if needed, with up to 5% General Finishes Extender if allowed by local

regulations. GF Extender will improve flow and leveling and increase open time, which is helpful

in dry climates. California Residents: Adding more than 2% of GF Extender will make the

products non-compliant per SCAQMD Regulations. GF assumes no liability for the improper use

of these products.

5. Apply 1-2 coats. We recommend no more than 2 coats, then finish with 1-2 coats of topcoat.

Instructions General Finishes Sanding Sealer

 Hand Application: Apply a liberal amount of product using a synthetic bristle brush,

foam brush, pad applicator, or roller.

 Spray Application: Before spraying, strain topcoat through a fine-mesh filter. Spray wet

films at 3-5-mil thickness. HVLP: 1.3mm-1.5mm spray tip, medium air cap. Verify tip sizes

with your equipment supplier. See our general guide for spray tip sizes. Keep your gun at

a 90° angle, 6-8" from the surface. On large, flat areas, use wet, even patterns 6-8" wide.

For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" wide to reduce overspray. Overlap

each pass 25% to conceal lines. Wear a full filter respirator (NIOSH/MSHA

approved) and work in a ventilated space. Read here for more information on spraying

techniques.

 Face frames on cabinets: Enduro professional products are engineered to be spray-

only but can be applied successfully to cabinet face frames or edges with a brush, pad, or

small cabinet specific roller such as Whizz Velour brand. Larger areas may not level with

a hand application.

6. Dry 2+ hours between coats in ideal conditions: 70°F/20°C; 50-70% humidity. Inadequate dry

time is one of the top reasons for finish failure. You can tell if a water-based finish is dry if it

forms a powder when lightly sanded with a fine-grade (220-320) foam sanding pad or 400-grit

sandpaper. If in doubt, wait longer. Increase dry time if:

 Humidity is over 80%

 3+ coats are applied

 Thick coats are applied

 Working over a previous existing sealed finish

 Applying over products from other brands

 Layering General Finishes water- and oil-based products:

 Water over oil: Let oil-based product dry 72+hrs

 Oil over water: Let water-based product dry 24+hrs

 To accelerate drying in humid conditions add General Finishes Accelerator and work in

a space with good ventilation and air movement. If you decide to re-coat before the

recommended time, test dryness.

7. Finish sand between coats with a fine-grade (220-320) foam sanding pad or 400-grit sandpaper

to improve smoothness and adhesion.

8. Remove dust with a vacuum, oil-free tack cloth or clean, water-dampened rag before re-coating.

9. Apply 2-3 coats of topcoat.

Cure Time

Water-based finishes cure and harden completely after 21 days in ideal conditions.

Benefits of using Sanding Sealer

You can substitute your first coat or two of topcoat with less-expensive Sanding Sealer. This also saves

time because it is easier to sand and dries faster than topcoat.

 It makes a strong barrier coat when working with existing finishes.

Instructions General Finishes Sanding Sealer

 The resin particle is also larger, so the finish "builds faster" (how thick it looks).

 It has strong adhesion properties. Sanding Sealer does not stop tannin or dye bleed-through, but

it does improve adhesion.

 Sanding sealer dries to the touch in 10-20 minutes.

 Example of use:

 Apply 1 coat of Sanding Sealer: finish sand before applying topcoat.

 Apply 1 coat of Sanding Sealer; finish sand before applying paint.

Warning: Do not use water-based products with Linseed Oils or Danish Oils.

Yellowing & Clear Topcoat

As is true of most "water-white" topcoats, General Finishes water-based topcoats dry clear over non-

reactive substrates, such as plastic or metal, except General Finishes Enduro-Var, which

ambers. When white paint sealed with a water-white topcoat is applied to something as unpredictable as

wood, all bets are off and the reason for yellowing is often unknown. It can be caused by topcoat

activating tannins in raw wood or aniline dyes, stains, or contaminants in a pre-existing finish. This is most

evident when using BRIGHT WHITE paint and most prevalent in sculpted details of furniture where the

topcoat can collect, intensifying color change to an unacceptable level.

There is no reliable way to predict whether yellowing will occur and to what degree. Every existing finish

is different, and we rarely know the finishing provenance on an existing piece. Every tree is different, and

every piece of wood is unique. Raw wood can bleed tannins immediately after the topcoat dries or

months later with seasonal temperature changes. Oak, pine, mahogany, and douglas fir are particularly

prone to bleed-through.

Summary

 Whites have a lower “hide” quality and are more transparent than most other colors. Nearly all

bright whites require additional coats to achieve the desired color and minimize color variation.

This can increase the cost of paint finishing. Always include a clause in your contracts addressing

the need for additional coats to achieve coverage.

 All bright white paint will yellow slightly with time, with or without topcoat. You have probably tried

to touch up white woodwork in your home after several years and noticed the new paint is

brighter.

 The underlying finish or wood species can affect the final color of light paint.

 Details and inside corners are difficult to cover with any paint color, but it tends to be more

noticeable with whites. This is a naturally occurring phenomenon in paint application and does not

necessarily constitute a defect in the paint finish or your technique.

 The more porous the paint, such as a chalk paint, the more likely that yellowing will occur. The

topcoat is seeping through the spaces caused by the larger particles of filler that give Chalk

Paints their texture.

Tips to Prevent Yellowing

 If it is a low-use project, use a premium white paint that is self-sealing and does not require a

topcoat. A clear topcoat is not required on General Finishes Milk Paint for increased durability,

Instructions General Finishes Sanding Sealer

as it is a self-sealing, exterior-rated coating with high durability and chemical and water

resistance. However, topcoats do provide a smooth surface that is easier to clean and boosts

durability for high-use projects, such as tabletops and kitchen cabinets.

 Use a professional spray such as General Finishes Enduro White Poly. It has "increased

topcoat properties," is a standalone finish when 3 coats are applied and does not require sealing

with a topcoat.

 We recommend using General Finishes Stain Blocker, an engineered chemical barrier, to

prevent persistent bleed-through for interior-use projects.

 Stain Blocker does not adhere to melamine cabinet veneers.

 Stain Blocker cannot be tinted.

 Always test your project's ENTIRE finishing schedule (from cleaning to topcoat) on an inside door

or a more hidden area of the piece. This will not help if the yellowing occurs later, but at least you

will know if there is an immediate problem.

 Avoid painting period furniture, such as a 1940s serpentine mahogany desk, with light colors.

The pieces were often finished in stain that contained aniline dyes, which cast a pinkish bleed-

through under light paint. Not every piece of furniture is suitable for upcycling with a light paint

color. Pine, mahogany, and furniture of the 1940s and 50s are a red flag.

 Last, not all manufacturers' topcoats are compatible with other finishes and may react with a color

change. Always follow best practices by not rushing and testing to your satisfaction first.

Knots

Knots in wood tend to bleed and are dense, making paint and stain adhesion a challenge. Stain Blocker

may improve adhesion and prevent bleed-through for painting projects. Pine knots are especially difficult

to cover with white or light paints. If you decide to paint over them, apply 3 coats of Stain Blocker first;

however, we cannot guarantee adhesion or bleed-through blockage. You are better off using a dark paint

on pine.

Cleanup of Water Based Products

Application tools and materials containing water-based products can be cleaned with soap and water

immediately after use.

Product Spills

Spills may be able to be removed from fabric and carpet if cleaned immediately with soap and water.

Storage of Water Based Products

Please be mindful of the way water-based products are stored and how long they have been in

storage. They are not a forever product.

Life of Product

Water-based products do not last forever, even when unopened. General Finishes products are best

used within 1 year. However, the life of the product may be extended several more years with proper

care and storage (see Storage Tips below).

Water-based products can last 3-5 years if the can is unopened, in good condition and stored in correct

temperatures.

Instructions General Finishes Sanding Sealer

Product that is 3 years old will not look like product that is 6 months to 1 year old. You will see more

stratification or separation as the product ages. Always stir thoroughly before using.

Foul Smell

If your product has a foul smell, it is contaminated and no longer in useable condition.

Clumps & Settling

Gravity can cause some solids to settle on the bottom of the can and slight separation on the top. This is

normal. If working with older product stir with a paint mixing attachment on a drill.

If the solids dissolve and clumps smooth out after mixing from the bottom, the product is in good condition

for use.

Inability to reincorporate large, chunky lumps after stirring for several minutes is an indication that the

product has frozen and can no longer be used.

Storage Tips

See video tutorial: Tips on Storing Leftover Finishes

Water-based finishes crystalize and form a skin due to evaporation when the air-tight seal on a can is

broken at first use. The following best practices will increase the life of your product:

1. Pry open sealed lids with a paint can opener by hooking under the lid's rolled edge. The use of a

screwdriver can disfigure the rim and lid, impairing a complete seal.

2. Keep lid closed while working. Pour what you will use into a bowl, paper cup, or plate, and close

can lid as you work.

3. Clean the chime of the can thoroughly with a paper towel before closing to create a

complete seal. Product falling into the chime can be minimized by using a pouring lid, such as

Fitsall. Avoid wiping used brushes on the lid.

4. Pound the lid in place using a rubber mallet to avoid distorting the chime or lid. Dents in the lid

from direct contact with a hammer can impair a complete seal. Alternatively, place a flat piece of

wood over can lid and firmly pound shut.

5. Store in moderate temperatures. Avoid temperatures below 50°F/10°C or above 100°F/26°C.

Keep from freezing. Frozen and heat-damaged product cannot be revitalized. Temperature-

controlled spaces, such as a basement, are ideal for storage. Do not store product in an attic,

garage, in direct sunlight, or next to something warm like a water heater or furnace.

6. Store can upside down to create a liquid seal, minimize evaporation and reduce the chance

of crystallization. Decant remaining product from the can before stirring.

7. Decant leftovers to a smaller container when the finish is almost used up. Alternative storage

containers for water-based products are plastic FIFO bottles or glass bottles. Do not fill metal-

lidded containers completely to prevent them from rusting.

The following water-based product mixtures can be stored:

1. Product thinned with up to 15% General Finishes Extender or General

Finishes Accelerator can be stored, with the exception of thinned General Finishes Water

Based Wood Stain.

Instructions General Finishes Sanding Sealer

2. Mixtures involving colors & sheens within the same product line, such as:

 High Performance Satin + High Performance Gloss

 Snow White Milk Paint + Coastal Blue Milk Paint

 Amber Dye Stain + Merlot Dye Stain

The following product mixtures should NOT be stored:

 Any water based product with thinned tap water; water often contains bacteria that will adversely

affect stored paint.

 Topcoat + Stain or Paint

 Milk Paint + Chalk Style Paint

 Water Based Wood Stain + Dye Stain

Warnings and Warranties

Compatibility

Do not use water-based products with Linseed Oils or Danish Oils.

Limited Warranty

General Finishes products must be tested to your complete satisfaction before using. General Finishes

will not be responsible for color satisfaction, misapplication, nor compatibility with other manufacturers'

products. General Finishes will be responsible only for the cost of our products, and not for costs such as

labor, damage, or project replacement.

Contamination and Compatibility

Our finishes are engineered as a system and are compatible with each other. General Finishes cannot

guarantee an ideal refinish when applying our products on top of or combined with another company's

products or over surfaces that have been in contact with waxes, polishes or sprays containing

contaminants such as silicone. Test for adherence and aesthetics before beginning.

Warning

If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO

LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN

CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH-approved

respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you

start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Information Hotline

at 1-800-424-LEAD or log onto www.epa.gov/lead.

FIRST AID:

Seek immediate medical attention if symptoms occur due to the following. EYE CONTACT: Remove any

contact lenses. Flush eyes with water for 20+ minutes while lifting upper and lower eyelids. SKIN

CONTACT: Wash thoroughly after handling. INHALATION: Move to fresh air and loosen clothing. If not

breathing, if breathing is irregular or if respiratory arrest occurs, provide artificial respiration or oxygen by

trained personnel. INGESTION: Call physician immediately. Wash out mouth with water. Do not induce

vomiting unless directed to do so by medical personnel. Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious

person.

Warning

This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects. Do

Instructions General Finishes Sanding Sealer

not swallow; first aid: drink water to dilute product. May cause eye or skin irritation; first aid: flush eyes

thoroughly with water.

Warning

Keep out of reach of children. Avoid contact with eyes. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

Wash thoroughly after handling.